PHOTOGRAPHY

11 things non-photographers just don’t understand about photography

Shovon Lal Saha

Link Author

Title: 11 things non-photographers just don’t understand about photography
Author: Shovon Lal Saha
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

Digital cameras have made photography easy. And even if you do make a mistake with camera settings , you can simply fix things in Photoshop ...

Digital cameras have made photography easy. And even if you do make a <a href="http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2013/03/13/10-common-camera-mistakes-every-photographer-makes/">mistake with camera settings</a>, you can simply <a href="http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2013/08/30/best-photo-editing-tips-for-beginners-18-quick-fixes-to-common-image-problems/">fix things in Photoshop</a>,
 right? In fact, why bother with a digital camera these days when you 
can shoot and share hi-res photos straight from a smartphone…<br />
<br />
It’s easy to see how the art of photography gets lost in translation 
with casual snappers. After all, it can be costly business, in terms of 
both money and time, and hard work and frustrating.<br />
<br />
All that standing around that our other halves have to do while we get <i>just one more shot</i> means that photography is probably equally as frustrating for them too.<br />
<br />
With this in mind, we thought we’d prepare a list of things that 
point-and-shooters probably don’t understand or appreciate about 
photographers and photography. We’re sure you’ll recognise at least one 
of them – and if there’s any we’ve missed, feel free to add them in the 
comments…<br />
<br />
<img alt="11 things non photographers just don't understand about photography" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-611136" height="407" src="http://media.digitalcameraworld.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/123/2015/10/11-things-non-photographers-just-dont-understand-about-photography.jpg" width="610" /><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>SEE MORE:</b> <a href="http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2013/09/30/photography-talk-32-things-photographers-say-and-what-they-really-mean/">32 things photographers say… and what they really mean</a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<b>01 One shot is never enough</b><br />
How often do you take one photo and move on? The first shot is rarely 
the best; you may be a little rusty, just getting your eye in or you 
might want to just move your feet and explore all the angles. The more 
photos you shoot, the more chance you have of coming back with a keeper.<br />
<br />
<b>02 You often get a more interesting camera angle by lying in the dirt</b><br />
Photography is bad for your feet, your knees and your clothes. Well, it 
tends to be if you’re doing it properly. While casual snappers shoot 
everything from head height (and arm’s length, squinting at the Live 
View display on the back of the camera), more experienced photographers 
know that to get original images you often need to work a bit harder and
 be prepared to get dirty to find a better shot.<br />
<br />
<img alt="11 things non photographers just don't understand about photography: bad light" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-611142" height="407" src="http://media.digitalcameraworld.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/123/2015/10/11-things-non-photographers-just-dont-understand-about-photography-bad-light.jpg" width="610" /><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>SEE MORE:</b> <a href="http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/07/06/6-camera-settings-beginners-find-confusing-and-we-can-see-why/">6 camera settings beginners find confusing (and we can see why)</a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<b>03 Sometimes there can be the wrong kind of light to take a good photo</b><br />
Trying to explain that it’s the wrong kind of light to take a picture 
sounds like a photographer’s excuse – and in some cases it probably is. 
But trying to take a portrait in bright, midday sun without the aid of 
shade, a reflector or flash? Or attempting to shoot a sharp action shot 
at dusk? Yes, there can be the wrong kind of light, too much of it, or 
not quite enough for quality photography.<br />
<br />
<b>04 “Yes, I dream of buying a lens/camera that costs more than our car”</b><br />
We’re all painfully aware of how expensive camera equipment is. That 
doesn’t stop many of us wanting more of it. Longer lenses. Faster 
lenses. How about a Hasselblad? From the outside looking in, it’s easy 
to balk at the price that well-heeled photographers are prepared to pay 
for their kit. But have you seen the price of high-end hi-fi or AV 
equipment?<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>SEE MORE:</b> <a href="http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2014/12/20/youve-just-started-photography-16-universal-truths/">So you’ve just started out in photography? 16 universal truths</a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<b>05 Just because someone has an expensive camera doesn’t mean they take better photos</b><br />
Unlike non-photographers, most of us can probably pick out ‘all the 
gear, no idea’ photographers a mile off. You know the ones: they have an
 abundance of camera kit and wear it like jewellery. Splashing a serious
 amount of cash on cameras can make you appear more serious about 
photography, but just because someone can afford a Leica doesn’t make 
them a leading photographer – in the same way that owning an expensive 
computer and word-processing package doesn’t turn you into an 
entertaining writer.<br />
<br />
<img alt="11 things non photographers just don't understand about photography: shooting" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-611145" height="405" src="http://media.digitalcameraworld.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/123/2015/10/11-things-non-photographers-just-dont-understand-about-photography-duty.jpg" width="610" /><br />
<b>06 Once you’re a photographer, you’re never off duty</b><br />
<br />
Photography isn’t really a hobby, it’s way of life. As Annie Liebovitz 
has been famously quoted as saying. “One doesn’t stop seeing. One 
doesn’t stop framing. It doesn’t turn off and turn on. It’s on all the 
time.”<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>SEE MORE:</b> <a href="http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2013/12/17/photography-for-beginners-6-reasons-youre-smarter-than-your-camera/">Photography for beginners: 6 reasons you’re smarter than your camera</a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<b>07 Photography doesn’t stop once you’ve pressed the shutter release</b><br />
Non-photographers can underappreciate that the digital photo processing 
can take just as it takes to get the shot in the first place. Naturally 
this depends on the quality of the file to begin with and how much 
retouching is required. If you’re a Lightroom wizard, batch-processing 
using presets can save time, but even a ‘print-ready’ JPEG straight from
 the camera usually requires a little digital love to get the best from 
it.<br />
<br />
<img alt="Best Photoshop colour tools: 01 Hue/Saturation and Vibrance" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-600613" height="381" src="http://media.digitalcameraworld.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/123/2015/05/Photoshop_colour_tools_PHO50.feature.1grab.jpg" width="610" /><br />
<br />
<b>08 Flash only reaches so far</b><br />
How many times have you been to a music concert only to watch hundreds 
of tiny flashes firing in the dark? In truth, these days you’re more 
likely to see hundreds of iPhones held aloft and recording video. But 
you’ll still see pop-up flashes being used from the back of the room at 
parties, school plays and weddings.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>SEE MORE:</b> <a href="http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2012/05/17/10-things-photographers-can-do-to-stop-wasting-pictures/">Stop wasting pictures! 10 tips for bagging keepers every time</a></div>
<br />
<b>09 Flash can be more useful in bright daylight than it is in the dark</b><br />
The time for a burst of on-camera flash is not when you’re 75 metres 
from the stage at a gig. It’s when you’re standing 5 metres from someone
 and want to remove shadows from their face on a bright summer’s day.<br />
<br />
<b>10 The background is more important than what’s in front of it</b><br />
It doesn’t matter how spectacular the subject of a photo is if the 
background doesn’t complement it. Whether it’s the classic tree or 
telegraph pole appearing to sprout from someone’s head in a portrait or a
 parked car in the middle of a landscape photo, switched-on 
photographers always worry about what the backdrop brings to a picture.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>SEE MORE:</b> <a href="http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2014/04/19/7-daily-exercises-that-will-make-you-a-better-photographer/">7 daily exercises that will make you a better photographer</a></div>
<img alt="11 things non photographers just don't understand about photography: timing" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-611133" height="407" src="http://media.digitalcameraworld.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/123/2015/10/11-things-non-photographers-just-dont-understand-about-photography-timing.jpg" width="610" /><br />
<br />
<b>11 Photographers want to head out when everyone else is heading in</b><br />
If you’re an outdoor photographer, then chances are you’ll end up doing a
 lot of driving in the dark, whether it’s to shoot a landscape at dawn 
or dusk, or simply a case of having to be on the spot at an unsociable 
hour because that’s when a wild animal will do its thing.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">source : <a href="http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/10/24/11-things-non-photographers-just-dont-understand-about-photography/">http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2015/10/24/11-things-non-photographers-just-dont-understand-about-photography/</a></span>

11 things non-photographers just don’t understand about photography

Digital cameras have made photography easy. And even if you do make a mistake with camera settings , you can simply fix things in Photoshop ...

Where to Focus When Taking a Photo

Shovon Lal Saha

Link Author

Title: Where to Focus When Taking a Photo
Author: Shovon Lal Saha
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

Most beginner photographers don’t know where to focus when taking a photo, and worse still, they don’t seem to know why it’s a problem eit...

Most beginner photographers don’t know where to focus when taking a 
photo, and worse still, they don’t seem to know why it’s a problem 
either.<br />
<br />

You may think that because you’re shooting a landscape photo, and your horizon is miles away, it’s best to focus to infinity.<br />

<br />
Wrong.<br />
<br />

Let me show you the error of your ways.<br />

<h3>
Hyperfocal Distance</h3>
You don’t need to fully understand how the following works, but you do need to understand the concept.<br />
<br />

The depth of field is largely dependant on your aperture, as well as 
your distance from the subject. There’s also another factor called your 
hyperfocal distance. Without boring you, or going into too much detail 
(this subject is worthy of a post itself), your hyperfocal distance is 
the distance at which you focus, where everything after it (stretching 
to infinity distance) remains acceptably sharp.<br />
<br />

Half of the distance between the hyperfocal length and the lens will also remain acceptably sharp too.<br />

Working out your hyperfocal distance involves complicated maths which
 involves your distance from a subject, your f/stop, your focal length, 
and the size of your sensor. Don’t bother trying to work it out 
yourself, just download an app for your phone, or follow the general 
rules I’m going to teach you in this post.<br />
<br />

I’ll go into this in further detail in another post, but for now, this is what you need to know:<br />
<br />

If you focus at infinity, you lose lots of your depth of field, 
because there will be barely any focus infront of infinity, and nothing 
behind the focus (because you’re already focused to infinity).<br />
<br />

<strong>Don’t focus to infinity, unless you’re trying to focus on a single subject, located at infinity. </strong><br />

<h3>
Landscapes</h3>
So now with your new found knowledge on the hyperfocal distance, you 
will either be very confused as to where to focus in a landscape, or 
darn sure that you shouldn’t focus to infinity. But where do you focus?<br />
<br />

Lets say you’re shooting a landscape, and your aperture is f/11, and 
your focal length is 24mm. You’re also shooting on a Canon crop sensor 
(slightly smaller than Nikon). Your hyperfocal distance is roughly 9 
feet. If you focus here, your photo will be acceptable sharp from 
anywhere 4.5 feet in front of your camera, all the way to infinity.<br />
<br />

But that’s maybe a little bit too specific. And it changes every time
 you adjust your aperture, and focal length, so that’s no good.<br />
<br />

Here’s some real science right here… focus about a third of the way into the frame.<br />
<br />

As a rule, you can’t go too far wrong with this. If you’re shooting a
 landscape, then chances are your aperture is quite narrow, so you have a
 decent DoF to play with.<br />
<br />

Here’s the difference between a photo where I focus about a third of the way to infinity…<br />
<br />

<br />
… and one where I focused to infinity.<br />
<br />

<br />
Can you see the difference?<br />
<br />

You may notice that the focus on your camera only goes to about 15 
feet until it reaches infinity. If you’re in doubt, you can’t go too far
 wrong by focusing to infinity, and then pulling the focus back a little
 bit (so that you’re no longer at infinity).<br />

<h3>
Portraits & People</h3>
Lets start by talking about a single subject here.<br />
<br />

If you remember what I wrote about <a href="http://www.expertphotography.com/composition-visual-weight-influence-viewers" target="_blank">visual weight</a>,
 the strongest visual weight comes from a person’s eyes. We’re 
automatically drawn to a person’s eyes, so clearly, that is where we 
need to focus.<br />
<br />

I’d like to think that’s pretty obvious. Especially when you’re using a wide aperture with a shallow depth of field.<br />
<br />

Have a look at my photo below. It was shot at f/1.4, which produces 
an exceptionally shallow DoF, but because I focused on her eyes, you 
can’t really tell.<br />
<br />

<br />
How about a group of people though? Where do you focus then?<br />
<br />

Well, we’re back to hyperfocal distance here. The DoF always extends 
further into the distance, than it does in the foreground. What does 
this tell you about where you should focus?<br />

Think about it, I’ll wait…<br />

…<br />

You want to focus on the eyes of the person closest to the camera. 
This is where you’ll be drawn to first, and if it’s not in perfect fous,
 then everything else is going to seem out of focus.<br />

From here, the focus will gradually decrease naturally.<br />
<br />

<h3>
Focus and Recompose</h3>
This is something you’ve probably heard of before, in fact, you’ve 
probably even done it. You focus on a certain part of the frame, such as
 a person’s eyes, and then you recompose the photo how you want it. This
 ensures for good focus and composition.<br />
<br />

To do this, you need to use your <a href="http://www.expertphotography.com/how-to-use-focal-lock-find-perfect-focus" target="_blank">focal lock</a>,
 which means shooting on either One-Shot mode, or AF-S. When you click 
the shutter button down half way, it will focus, and then hold the focus
 until you’ve recomposed and taken the photo.<br />
<br />

I would also recommend using the center focus point, rather than all 
of them together, or any specific focus point. This is because it’s easy
 to select, and this is where you camera will meter from. 2 birds with 
one stone.<br />
<br />

Be careful about using this technique when you’re using a wide 
aperture with a very shallow DoF, because even the slightest movement 
can throw the photo out of focus.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">source : <a href="http://expertphotography.com/where-to-focus-when-taking-a-photo/">http://expertphotography.com/where-to-focus-when-taking-a-photo/</a></span>

Where to Focus When Taking a Photo

Most beginner photographers don’t know where to focus when taking a photo, and worse still, they don’t seem to know why it’s a problem eit...

The Top 10 Secret Ingredients of Professional Photography Revealed

Shovon Lal Saha

Link Author

Title: The Top 10 Secret Ingredients of Professional Photography Revealed
Author: Shovon Lal Saha
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

Great professional photography has so much more to it than shutter speeds and aperture and goes well beyond today’s latest high end camera...

Great professional photography has so much more to it than shutter 
speeds and aperture and goes well beyond today’s latest high end 
cameras.<br />
<br />

These fundamental aspects are undeniably extremely useful but, the 
truth is, there are a number of common characteristics shared 
amongst many professional photographers.<br />
<br />

By studying these and applying them to your own process, it’s 
possible to grow creatively and come one step closer to achieving your 
goals and dreams.<br />

<h2>
1) Transcend Technology</h2>
The most powerful photography sensor available is found, not in the 
camera, but within yourself. The secret lies in your ability to 
recognize emotion and document it with a photo.<br />
<br />

It doesn’t matter if you’re using a DSLR, Mirrorless camera, point 
and shoot or a smartphone; a memorable event transcends technology.<br />
<br />

Although today’s camera ads promise that just about anyone can take a great photo, this is merely a marketing gimmick.<br />
<br />

Make no mistake: mastering your camera takes enormous dedication, 
continued practice and the burning desire to reach new heights.<br />
<br />

<h2>
2) Brush Off Bad Days</h2>
It’s difficult to predict where and when a great photo opportunity 
will arise. Only by heading out with your camera regularly will your 
percentage of keepers increase. Perfection is never the goal; it’s doing
 your best that counts.<br />
<br />

Rather than settling for the same tried and true formula, challenge 
yourself. Try new techniques. Free yourself from the notion that 
professionals don’t have bad days or take lousy photos. It’s all a 
necessary part of the artistic process.<br />
<br />

As the Hall of Fame hockey player Wayne Gretzky said, “You miss 100% of the shots you don’t take.”<br />
<br />

<h2>
3) Confidence</h2>
Many of the photographers I work with capture remarkable images that are certainly worthy of the “professional quality” label.<br />
<br />

Some of these clients have considered changing careers to follow 
their passion but lack one key ingredient to do so. This important 
element is something you won’t read about in a photography magazine or 
see on a forum – it’s not a fast lens, or a clever camera strap.<br />
<br />

No, these are all superficial elements that anyone with a credit card can buy.<br />
<br />

The secret for a successful photography career boils down to one thing: confidence.<br />
<br />

If there is a technique that scares you, now is the time to learn it.
 With the roadblock pushed aside, you can see your goals more clearly 
and continue on the path ahead.<br />
<br />

<h2>
4) Curiosity</h2>
The way you view the world will undoubtedly impact your photography. 
If you’re having trouble changing your vision, simply adjust your 
approach. Rather than thinking like a photographer, consider yourself a 
visual detective.<br />
<br />

This forces one to really study the space around them, while paying 
careful attention to details. Through our inquisitive nature, we can 
uncover moments in photographs that most would let pass by.<br />
<br />

Let curiosity guide your compositions and you will learn to see the world differently.<br />
<br />

<h2>
5) Desire</h2>
The grandest adventures begin with a simple desire to see something new.<br />
<br />

Maybe it’s an old forgotten Lighthouse, a new part of the city, a 
rustic barn on the other side of town – allow your passion to take you 
to new places, outside of your comfort zone.<br />
<br />

For inspiration, check the local library for travel guides on your 
own state. Cross reference this research with online photo galleries and
 published reviews.<br />
<br />

You’ll quickly get a feel for what your area holds and a vision of how you’d like to capture it.<br />
<br />

<h2>
6) Keep Moving Forward</h2>
Before reaching any breathtaking vista, you must first climb, sweat 
and navigate around thickets. This type of persistence is equally 
important on the path to good photography.<br />
<br />

Even the greatest photographers of all time had outings that were 
less than ideal, no finer example being this story from Ansel Adams, who
 spent a frustrating day with “several exasperating trials.”<br />
<br />

Adams <em>wasn’</em>t discouraged. He noted that “defeat comes 
occasionally to all photographers, as to all politicians, and there is 
no use moaning about it.”<br />
<br />

He got back in the car, started driving and soon found a majestic 
scene that was to become one of his most famous works: Moonrise, 
Hernandez.<br />
<br />

Whether you’re just starting your photography pursuit, or are 
exploring new creative avenues, you never know what treasures will greet
 you around the next bend.<br />
<br />

<h2>
7) Question Everything</h2>
When you’re first learning photography, it’s wise to search for facts
 and truth. The internet, of course, has democratized learning with an 
abundance of information at our fingertips.<br />
<br />

Still, making good art is often more about the questions than the 
answers. Ignore this and you’ll end up following a formulaic process, 
gaining only results that look like everyone else’s work.<br />
<br />

In order to create your own visual signature, you must look within.<br />
<br />

What kind of images do you see in your mind’s eye? Now try to recreate that.<br />
<br />

Use this technique to guide your photographic efforts and you’ll soon be making images that exceed your expectations.<br />
<br />

<h2>
8) Self Awareness</h2>
A photographer I recently worked with asked for the best non-technical advice I could offer. The question took me off guard <span>momentarily;</span> it was quite the departure from the common inquiries on histograms, white balance or aperture.<br />
<br />

My thoughts quickly shifted to the words of photographer Ernst Haas (1921 – 1986).<br />
<br />

When I was first starting out, this quote resonated deeply with me 
and it remains an influential concept to this day. “There is only you 
and your camera. The limitations in your photography are in yourself, 
for what we see is what we are.”<br />
<br />

What Haas was describing is the real test of a photographer’s 
artistic growth. When there is no grand vista or magic light, no double 
rainbow or brilliant sunset, do you pack away your camera… or do you 
look harder to find the photo that everyone else passed by?<br />
<br />

It’s this part of our art that can’t be explained in a technical guide but has to come from within.<br />
<br />

<h2>
9) Annual Reflection</h2>
The autumn harvest is not just for pumpkins and apples but photographs too.<br />

That’s right, now is the time to pick your favorite images from the 
last year. I do this each October while assembling a photo calendar for 
family and friends.<br />
<br />

They make great holiday gifts and are a wonderful way to share your 
year’s adventures. Ansel Adams believed that “Twelve significant 
photographs in any one year is a good crop.” Ironically enough, that’s 
the exact amount you’ll need to fill each month.<br />
<br />

I also view this exercise as a measuring stick for growth: what did I
 do better this year than last? How can I make improvements in the days 
and months ahead?<br />
<br />

<h2>
10) Trail Blazer</h2>
There’s no denying that photography is a powerful art form, just as 
painting, music and sculpture are too. If you look into the history of 
these disciplines, you’ll find further similarities:<br />
<br />

Those who enjoyed long term success did so not by following current trends but by paving their own way.<br />
<br />

This, of course, is no easy feat, perhaps best expressed by Alfred de
 Musset who said, “How glorious it is – and also how painful – to be an 
exception”.<br />
<br />

Whether it’s your choice of gear, or the subject matter you focus on, throw out the rule book and follow your own heart.<br />
<br />

<br />
<img alt="trailblazer" class="aligncenter wp-image-16561" data-essbisindex="1" height="467" src="http://2dhnizrxqvv1awj231eodql1.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/10_trailblazer.jpg" width="700" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">source : <a href="http://expertphotography.com/the-top-10-secret-ingredients-of-professional-photography-revealed/">http://expertphotography.com/the-top-10-secret-ingredients-of-professional-photography-revealed/</a></span>

The Top 10 Secret Ingredients of Professional Photography Revealed

Great professional photography has so much more to it than shutter speeds and aperture and goes well beyond today’s latest high end camera...

Night Photography : Try It

Shovon Lal Saha

Link Author

Title: Night Photography : Try It
Author: Shovon Lal Saha
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

Why do so many casual and amateur photographers shy away from taking pictures once the sun...

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Why do so many casual and amateur photographers shy away from 
taking pictures once the sun goes down? Haven’t they seen the great 
pictures taken at night by other photographers? Maybe they think those 
type pictures can only be made by professional photographers with 
thousands of dollars worth of equipment. Well that line of thinking is 
not true at all.<br />
<br />

<div class="wp-caption alignright" id="attachment_24736" style="width: 320px;">
<div class="wp-caption-text">
“Ooooh oui… oh la la la…!” captured by <a href="http://www.picturesocial.com/profile/bryangwong" target="_blank">Bryan</a></div>
</div>
Taking night shots is not as difficult as some may think. If you have
 a camera, a tripod, and a subject you can take some great night shots. 
That is, as long as there is some light available. It can be artificial 
light, moonlight, or ambient light from the atmosphere just after 
sunset.<br />
<br />

Night photography gives you a chance to have the type of shots that 
are out of the ordinary—not the same type pictures everyone else has.<br />

A few of the more popular night photography subjects are city 
skylines, well lit downtown areas, moonlit scenes, and tourist 
attraction areas. However, any scene in your own neighborhood or town 
that has some sort of light in it is fair game for night photography.<br />

</div>
</div>
<h4>
Timing</h4>
You don’t have to be out at midnight to take night shots. Some of the
 best night shots are taken right after the sun has set. Sure it’s dark,
 but there is still a little ambient light remaining from the sunset in 
the air. This is important because you might be able to record a little 
more detail in the shadow areas of the scene at this time of evening. As
 it gets later in the evening, many of the shadow areas will appear very
 dark or black with no detail unless there is some sort of artificial 
light around that area.<br />

<h4>
Camera</h4>
What type camera will you need? A Digital Single Lens Reflex camera 
(DSLR) is the best choice for night photography. That’s because when 
using a DSLR camera you’ll have more control over the camera’s exposure 
settings. Taking pictures at night will require longer exposure times 
and a DSLR has more options for changing the exposure settings.<br />

<div class="wp-caption alignnone" id="attachment_24737" style="width: 580px;">
<a href="http://www.picturesocial.com/photo/union-station-6" target="_blank"><img alt="night photography" class="size-full wp-image-24737 " height="285" src="http://cdn.picturecorrect.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/night-photography2.jpg" title="night-photography2" width="570" /></a><div class="wp-caption-text">
“Union Station” captured by <a href="http://www.picturesocial.com/profile/TorreyGleave" target="_blank">Torrey</a></div>
</div>
However, you can also use a compact camera to take night pictures. 
Most digital compact cameras have some sort of night mode setting, such 
as night landscape. A night mode setting will keep the camera’s shutter 
open for longer periods of time so that the image sensor can absorb more
 light. The main problem with using a compact camera for night 
photography is that you won’t be able to choose the exposure settings. 
In spite of that, your camera’s automatic night mode setting may still 
be able to produce some good images at times.<br />

<h4>
Tripod</h4>
A tripod is a must! When taking pictures at night the cameras’ 
shutter can be open for seconds instead of fractions of a second. It is 
practically impossible to obtain a sharp image using a shutter speed of 
less than 1/30th of a second while the camera is being hand held. So 
make sure to use a tripod. Also try using your cameras’ self timer or a 
remote shutter release when using a tripod. The reason for that is 
because there may be some camera shake when your finger presses the 
shutter release even when the camera is on a tripod.<br />

<h4>
Camera Settings</h4>
What are the best camera exposure settings for night photography? 
There are no standard exposure settings for night photography. Just like
 daytime photography, the exposure settings for night photography will 
depend on the amount of available light in a scene.<br />

Get started by taking a shot of your night scene. You can start by 
using your camera’s automatic mode or any other mode you choose. Take a 
look at the result on the LCD screen. If the image is too light or dark,
 adjust your settings accordingly.<br />

If you’re using a DSLR camera, you will be able to manually change 
the camera aperture or shutter speed. If you’re using a compact digital 
camera, try using the exposure compensation EV+ or EV- feature. That 
will allow more or less light into the camera. (Note: You might not be 
able to use that feature while in a night mode.)<br />
<br />

<div class="wp-caption alignnone" id="attachment_24738" style="width: 580px;">
<a href="http://www.picturesocial.com/photo/lv-nite" target="_blank"><img alt="low light picture" class="size-full wp-image-24738 " height="377" src="http://cdn.picturecorrect.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/night-photography3.jpg" title="night-photography3" width="570" /></a><div class="wp-caption-text">
“LV@nite” captured by <a href="http://www.picturesocial.com/profile/JohnC" target="_blank">John C</a></div>
</div>
<h4>
Bracketing</h4>
Bracketing your exposures can be helpful when taking night shots. 
Bracketing your exposures means to take several shots of the same scene 
at different exposure settings. Take one or two that will be darker and 
one or two that will be lighter than the recommended exposure setting. 
You will then have more images to choose from when deciding which 
exposure setting was the best.<br />

Overall taking night pictures is not more difficult than taking 
pictures in the daytime. It might be a little challenging in the 
beginning but it will be a fun and exciting challenge. Once you know a 
little about camera exposure basics and the operation of your camera, 
you are well on your way to getting that great night shot.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">source : <a href="http://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/try-night-photography/">http://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/try-night-photography/</a></span>

Night Photography : Try It

Why do so many casual and amateur photographers shy away from taking pictures once the sun...

6 Tips to Make Great Photographs with the iPhone 6

Shovon Lal Saha

Link Author

Title: 6 Tips to Make Great Photographs with the iPhone 6
Author: Shovon Lal Saha
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

When you leave home and hit the road, be it for work, play, or pretty much anything you set out to do, you should always carry a ca...

When you leave home and hit the road, be it for work, play, or pretty
 much anything you set out to do, you should always carry a camera. 
There is a photographic axiom that says, “What is the best camera? The 
camera you have with you!” and that is undeniably true. The camera you 
will sling over your shoulder is going to change over the years and a 
new camera can stimulate you and put you into a photo-taking mood by 
simply being new. The technology changes, and even the great masters 
used a range of cameras across their careers.<br />
<span id="more-185858"></span><br />
<br />
<div class="wp-caption aligncenter" id="attachment_185861" style="width: 535px;">
<img alt="This shot was taken while I was at a stop light sitting on my Vespa. I looked up and the drama of the clouds struck me. I slipped the phone out of my pocket pointed it straight up and make this shot. It looked good in color, but the B&W was more dramatic." class="size-full wp-image-185861" height="700" src="http://petapixel.com/assets/uploads/2015/10/clouds-and-buildings.jpg" width="525" /><div class="wp-caption-text">
This
 shot was taken while I was at a stop light sitting on my Vespa. I 
looked up and the drama of the clouds struck me. I slipped the phone out
 of my pocket pointed it straight up and make this shot. It looked good 
in color, but the B&W was more dramatic.</div>
</div>
<br />

But sometimes you leave your camera at home because it’s just too 
heavy and cumbersome. Compositions and photo movements abound, just 
because you don’t have your camera with you doesn’t mean you aren’t 
seeing and the photo opportunities are not present. Three things you 
don’t leave at home that are non-negotiable are; keys, wallet and mobile
 phone. The camera and phone combo may be the greatest technological 
achievement of the 21st century because it allows us to always have a 
camera with us, and the ability to share our images.<br />

<div class="wp-caption aligncenter" id="attachment_185862" style="width: 650px;">
<img alt="Taken at dusk on a bridge over the Arno River in Florence. I pushed the saturation to give it extra punch. I also shot this with my trusty Fuji X-Pro1, but made the same shot with the iPhone so I could tag and share it by the time I stepped off the bridge." class="size-full wp-image-185862" height="480" src="http://petapixel.com/assets/uploads/2015/10/arno-river.jpg" width="640" /><div class="wp-caption-text">
Taken
 at dusk on a bridge over the Arno River in Florence. I pushed the 
saturation to give it extra punch. I also shot this with my trusty Fuji 
XPro1, but made the same shot with the iPhone so I could tag and share 
it by the time I stepped off the bridge.</div>
</div>
My only ‘photo-phone’ experience so far has been using the Apple 
iPhone, so if you are going to call me an Apple fan boy, go ahead, I 
accept that moniker because I believe in the iPhone and started off with
 an iPhone 3 in 2007. The first photo I took was a homeless person in a 
ATM bank lobby. Later I would shoot what might have been the first 
iPhone wedding of NY fashion designer Michele Korn using only the iPhone
 3. <br />

<div class="wp-caption aligncenter" id="attachment_185863" style="width: 650px;">
<img alt="Keep your eyes open when walking and when you see something interesting, bam! You can capture faster than you can call your mom. Construction site for Hudson Yards project in NYC. " class="size-full wp-image-185863" height="421" src="http://petapixel.com/assets/uploads/2015/10/hudson-yards-construction.jpg" width="640" /><div class="wp-caption-text">
Keep
 your eyes open when walking and when you see something interesting, 
bam! You can capture faster than you can call your mom. Construction 
site for Hudson Yards project in NYC.</div>
</div>
I fell in love with the device, simply because it was always in my 
pocket! Dutifully I went from iPhone 3, to 4, to 4s, skipped a 5 and got
 the 6 early in 2015. The progression has been upward, but the 6 was a 
big leap in quality from its predecessors. All images shown in this blog
 post were taken this year with the iPhone 6.<br />

<div class="wp-caption aligncenter" id="attachment_185864" style="width: 485px;">
<img alt="Still life with the iPhone, you bet!" class="size-full wp-image-185864" height="700" src="http://petapixel.com/assets/uploads/2015/10/homage-to-edward-weston.jpg" width="475" /><div class="wp-caption-text">
Still life with the iPhone, you bet!</div>
</div>
So here are my 6 recommendations for getting better photos when shooting with an iPhone:<br />

<h3>
#1: Keep Your Lens Clean</h3>
Wipe you lens off each time you go to make a photograph. That lens is
 tiny, and you need it as clean as can be to maintain sharpness. A 
finger print will substantially soften the image and lower contrast. An 
actual smudge or what we call “schmutz” in New York will diffuse your 
image to the point of total failure. Use your t-shirt, a tissue, or 
whatever you have handy. Of course a micro fiber is the best choice. My 
wife Barbara keeps her iPhone in a micro fiber pouch to protect it in 
her pocket book from scratches and that makes a great way to keep the 
lens smudge and scratch free.<br />

<div class="wp-caption aligncenter" id="attachment_185865" style="width: 611px;">
<img alt="Nikki Sixx on tour with Six AM. I was about 15 feet back and did cropped in post. The colors were awful as most concert photography is, so I just converted to black and white. " class="size-full wp-image-185865" height="700" src="http://petapixel.com/assets/uploads/2015/10/428.jpg" width="601" /><div class="wp-caption-text">
Nikki
 Sixx on tour with Six AM. I was about 15 feet back and did cropped in 
post. The colors were awful as most concert photography is, so I just 
converted to black and white.</div>
</div>
<h3>
#2: Be Touchy</h3>
Your phone does have auto-focus and auto-exposure, but it can get 
fooled. Compose your image first, and then tap on the subject of your 
photo. Once you have a focus and exposure lock, you can then drag your 
finger up or down to adjust exposure. Very useful for backlit subjects 
and in that case, touch up for + exposure. This will come handy when you
 are shooting at the beach or in a snow scene.<br />

<div class="wp-caption aligncenter" id="attachment_185866" style="width: 650px;">
<img alt="View from Little Round Top over the Valley of Death at Gettysburg, PA. This is a great example of working the exposure. I tapped the cannon and then had to further adjust the exposure due to the setting sun in the photo." class="size-full wp-image-185866" height="505" src="http://petapixel.com/assets/uploads/2015/10/little_round_top.jpg" width="640" /><div class="wp-caption-text">
View
 from Little Round Top over the Valley of Death at Gettysburg, PA. This 
is a great example of working the exposure. I tapped the cannon and then
 had to further adjust the exposure due to the setting sun in the photo.</div>
</div>
<h3>
#3: Shoot Standard</h3>
Capture with the standard camera setting. Don’t bother with the HDR 
mode, it’s better to adjust your image later in a post-processing app 
which we will talk about later. The standard photo is a 4:3 ratio which 
will give you a standard image. You might want to consider shooting in 
square mode if you plan on using Instagram, since Instagram forces you 
to use square compositions. This will save you having to crop later and 
perhaps missing a part of the image that you wanted in or is needed for 
the composition. Getting it as close to perfect in the capture, then 
fine tuning later in post is a great rule of thumb.<br />

<div class="wp-caption aligncenter" id="attachment_185867" style="width: 535px;">
<img alt="I saw this composition across the street and waited about 3 minutes for the traffic to clear. Look close, they are all on their phones! I corrected the perspective in Snapseed to make the lines all straight. " class="size-full wp-image-185867" height="700" src="http://petapixel.com/assets/uploads/2015/10/take-a-break.jpg" width="525" /><div class="wp-caption-text">
I
 saw this composition across the street and waited about 3 minutes for 
the traffic to clear. Look close, they are all on their phones! I 
corrected the perspective in Snapseed to make the lines all straight.</div>
</div>
<h3>
#4: Avoid Flash</h3>
Turn the flash off. Yup, unless it is really dark, like the inside of
 club or outside at night and you are shooting a subject less than 7 
feet away, the flash (which is really a LED light and not a flash at 
all) will make a crappy photo. There are three settings, off, on, and 
auto. By default it’s on auto out of the box, you will want to set that 
to off. I never ever use the flash function, I hate the way it looks. A 
trick to use if you must shoot in the dark, is have a friend hold up 
their iPhone and use it as a flash light. This way, the angle of light 
gives shape as opposed to your flash right next to the lens making a 
flat over exposed image.<br />

<div class="wp-caption aligncenter" id="attachment_185868" style="width: 535px;">
<img alt="Go ahead, be that person who posts their food, but make sure it looks good! If you can’t shoot your dish in good light then just don’t. Use the table-cloth to add to the ambiance, feel free to arrange the salt shaker and utensils so it looks good. Never use the flash!" class="size-full wp-image-185868" height="700" src="http://petapixel.com/assets/uploads/2015/10/pici.jpg" width="525" /><div class="wp-caption-text">
Go
 ahead, be that person who posts their food, but make sure it looks 
good! If you can’t shoot your dish in good light then just don’t. Use 
the table cloth to add to the ambiance, feel free to arrange the salt 
shaker and utensils so it looks good. Never use the flash!</div>
</div>
<h3>
#5: Avoid Zoom</h3>
Use minimal if any zoom. Any zooming you do by pinching the image 
will digitally zoom it, and it’s better to just do that in a post app. I
 advocate if you are good with composition to use a little bit of zoom 
if you can’t physically get closer, like a shooting a building across a 
busy street, but really cropping should be done in post to maintain 
quality. When you have to 8 to 12 megapixels like the iPhone has, you 
have plenty of pixels to crop in post. Also, your focus can be tricked 
if you zoom heavily.<br />

<div class="wp-caption aligncenter" id="attachment_185869" style="width: 535px;">
<img alt="Street shooting with the iPhone you never miss a shot. Just keep an eye on the street signs so you don't get a ticket!" class="size-full wp-image-185869" height="700" src="http://petapixel.com/assets/uploads/2015/10/parking-ticket.jpg" width="525" /><div class="wp-caption-text">
Street shooting with the iPhone you never miss a shot. Just keep an eye on the street signs so you don’t get a ticket!</div>
</div>
<h3>
#6: Use Snapseed for Editing</h3>
Use the best app ever invented, and that is Snapseed (find it free on <a href="https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/snapseed/id439438619?mt=8" target="_blank" title="">iTunes</a> and <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.niksoftware.snapseed&hl=en" target="_blank" title="">Google Play</a>). Invented by Nik and then <a href="http://petapixel.com/2012/09/17/google-snaps-up-snapseed-now-ready-to-battle-facebooks-instagram/">acquired by Google</a>,
 Snapseed does it all. I love Snapseed because it’s free, and it’s 
spectacular. I used to advocate Adobe PS Express and Camera bag but 
Google has super charged Snapseed into a beast of an app. And did I 
mention it’s free? Every image you see on this page was captured with 
the iPhone, then opened up with Snapseed and edited.<br />

<div class="wp-caption aligncenter" id="attachment_185870" style="width: 563px;">
<img alt="NY Harbor from a tall building in Battery Park. the Drama filter in Snapseed just really brings out the rays of light and clouds." class="size-full wp-image-185870" height="700" src="http://petapixel.com/assets/uploads/2015/10/view-from-jerrys.jpg" width="553" /><div class="wp-caption-text">
NY
 Harbor from a tall building in Battery Park. the Drama filter in 
Snapseed just really brings out the rays of light and clouds.</div>
</div>
Well there you have it. Six tips to make you iPhone experience rock. Keep shooting!<br />

<div class="wp-caption aligncenter" id="attachment_185871" style="width: 650px;">
<img alt="The house I summered in when I was a kid in the 70's. Bradley Beach. " class="size-full wp-image-185871" height="654" src="http://petapixel.com/assets/uploads/2015/10/bradley_beach.jpg" width="640" /><div class="wp-caption-text">
The house I summered in when I was a kid in the 70’s. Bradley Beach.</div>
</div>
<img alt="armslength" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-185872" height="700" src="http://petapixel.com/assets/uploads/2015/10/armslength.jpg" width="525" /><br />

And lastly, my two favorite things to shoot, my wife, Barbara, and the Raven Wing my Harley Davidson.<br />

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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://petapixel.com/assets/uploads/2015/10/vespa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://petapixel.com/assets/uploads/2015/10/vespa.jpg" width="563" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">source: <a href="http://petapixel.com/2015/10/11/6-tips-to-make-great-photographs-with-the-iphone-6/">http://petapixel.com/2015/10/11/6-tips-to-make-great-photographs-with-the-iphone-6/</a></span><br />

6 Tips to Make Great Photographs with the iPhone 6

When you leave home and hit the road, be it for work, play, or pretty much anything you set out to do, you should always carry a ca...

Photography Tips for Absolute Beginners

Shovon Lal Saha

Link Author

Title: Photography Tips for Absolute Beginners
Author: Shovon Lal Saha
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

So you have decided you might like to try getting into photography, you have either just acquired a new camera or are about to, where do yo...

So you have decided you might like to try getting into photography, 
you have either just acquired a new camera or are about to, where do you
 begin?<br />
<br />

Here are some photography tips for absolute beginners to help get you started:<br />

<h2>
Buying gear</h2>
Your gear does not make you a good photographer. If you are just 
starting out, a top of the line camera is likely to not ony be be a 
waste of money for you, but also make your learning process a bit 
trickier. A bit like buying a formula one race car to learn to drive.<br />

When you do want to buy gear, research first. It’s really helpful to 
take a look at some photography forums or articles here on dPS to find 
tips on <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/guide-to-buying-your-first-dslr/" target="_blank">beginner cameras</a>.
 Once you find something that sounds viable and fits your budget, read 
reviews, and again look to forums such as Flickr, where there is a chat 
group for nearly every brand or model of camera, and they are often more
 honest about any issues.<br />

The same applies to other gear like lighting. You don’t need to set 
yourself up with professional soft boxes to try studio lit portraits, 
you can try some of these <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/creating-effective-diy-studio-lighting-with-household-items/" target="_blank">DIY lighting tips</a>, or find some cheap beginner setups on Amazon or Ebay.<br />

<h2>
Take lots of photographs</h2>
<blockquote>
<em>“Your first ten thousand photographs are your worst”</em> – Henri Cartier-Bresson</blockquote>
As with any skill, the more you use it, the better you get. As you 
progress with your photography and look back on those early beginner 
shots you thought were fabulous, you’ll be able to see Mr. 
Cartier-Bresson was very right.<br />

<h2>
Read the manual</h2>
Camera manuals are at best, the most boring thing you have ever read 
in your life, with the possible exception of that friend that wanted you
 to read all 600 pages of their poetry about love and skin rashes.<br />

<div class="wp-caption aligncenter" id="attachment_91422" style="width: 727px;">
<img alt="Wile not an exciting read, going over the manual is very helpful." class="wp-image-91422 size-post-large-image" height="436" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/absolute-beginner-phtography-tips2-717x436.jpg" width="717" /><div class="wp-caption-text">
Camera manuals are not exactly a riveting read.</div>
</div>
It’s a good thing both in the beginning, and to refresh down the 
track, to know how this wonderful instrument (your camera) actually 
works. Even if you don’t recall all of it, that doesn’t matter, you will
 learn or be reminded of something helpful.<br />

Yet it’s such a hard thing to read that manual! So it’s best to place
 it somewhere where you can push through it in small instalments while 
you are passing some time such as: the bathroom, in the car if 
circumstances have you often sitting there waiting for the kids, or at 
work during lunch break. Just as long as you give that thing a good 
going over.<br />

<h2>
Workshops and courses</h2>
So you’ve got the photography bug. You might be thinking, “Ooooo! 
I’ll sign up to a bunch of courses, workshops, buy online courses.” It 
might seem like a good idea and while they can be fantastic, I don’t 
recommend going nuts with your enthusiasm, and signing up for courses 
and workshops the moment you get the photography buzz.<br />

You are currently reading one of the most useful photography sites on
 the entire internet. There is more information, tips and tutorials on 
this site, and others, than you will ever need to get you started and 
beyond. Once you get the hang of things, then you will have a better 
idea of the type of courses and workshops that would suit you. So I’m 
not saying don’t take a course – just wait until you know what suits 
your needs.<br />

<h2>
Connect with other photographers</h2>
This is invaluable, whether you sign up to an online group that use 
your brand of camera, or join a local camera club, your photography will
 progress faster, and it will be more fun with the help of fellow 
shutterbugs.<br />

<div class="wp-caption aligncenter" id="attachment_91429" style="width: 727px;">
<img alt="Even other beginners can help you learn new photography skills." class="wp-image-91429 size-post-large-image" height="528" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/absolute-beginner-phtography-tips-3r-717x528.jpg" width="717" /><div class="wp-caption-text">
Connecting with other photographers is a great way to learn more and get inspired.</div>
</div>
Camera clubs often have monthly competitions to practice with and 
sometimes organize photo tours, exhibitions and other activities. 
Talking with knowledgeable photographers or even fellow beginners can 
not only inspire, but also keep you motivated.<br />

Sign up to some reputable photography newsletters and Facebook pages,
 or even approach photographers you admire to ask questions. Most 
professional photographers don’t mind answering a few questions, as long
 as you are respectful and polite, and don’t demand too much of their 
time.<br />

<h2>
Try everything</h2>
You may have taken up photography with a certain style or subject in 
mind, but it can be helpful to try all styles. You never know what you 
might have a knack for, or what you will learn along the way.<br />

<h2>
Getting feedback</h2>
Your friends and family may love you but they will lie to you about 
your photography. Unless you have a very honest friend or family member 
who actually knows a bit about photography, it’s often more beneficial 
to get feedback from strangers.<br />

Signing up to a photo sharing site where others can comment on your 
work will get you mostly honest feedback, sometimes brutally so. I 
posted the image below on a feedback site some years ago. Aware the 
image had faults, I was keen to hear what someone else could point out 
for me, that I might not have seen after working so closely on the 
image.<br />

A fellow submitted a lengthy comment , basically pulled it apart, 
pointing out several (million it seemed) faults, he really went to town 
on it. But while the comments were brutal and borderline unkind, it was 
useful advice. All of which I ignored in regards to that image, but was 
useful for later attempts.<br />

<h2>
Enter free competitions</h2>
If you have loads of money to spend, and confidence in your work, by 
all means as a beginner enter some of the big competitions. You wouldn’t
 be the first to take out a major prize in the first few months of 
picking up a camera. But there are loads of free competitions out there 
for you to throw some images, at and see how they go. Have a read of 
this <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-win-a-photography-competition/" target="_blank">helpful guide</a> to entering competitions.<br />

<h2>
Aim to get off Auto settings</h2>
If you really want to be a good photographer, this is vital. No rush 
though! Just enjoy photographing in Auto Mode, and experiment with the 
settings as you go. Manual settings are not nearly as difficult as some 
beginners think. It can be a bit like learning to drive. In the 
beginning, it can be challenging to manage gears, indicators, and 
steering, all the while trying not veer off the road. But, with a bit of
 patience and practice, it becomes second nature. When you are ready to 
try manual settings there are plenty of <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/getting-off-auto-manual-aperture-and-shutter-priority-modes-explained/" target="_blank">beginner guides</a> and <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/cheat-sheet-getting-control-camera-manual-mode/" target="_blank">cheat sheets</a> here on dPS.<br />

<h2>
The digital darkroom</h2>
If you are really into your photography, you will need some sort of 
editing program. In the days of film photography you needed a darkroom 
and the use of heavy chemicals. But these days, thanks to modern 
technology, you can edit almost anywhere.<br />

<div class="wp-caption aligncenter" id="attachment_91430" style="width: 727px;">
<img alt="With today's digital darkroom you can edit your photo's pretty much anywhere and chemical free." class="wp-image-91430 size-post-large-image" height="453" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/absolute-beginner-phtography-tips-4r-717x453.jpg" width="717" /><div class="wp-caption-text">
These days your darkroom can even be in bed with some accompaniments.</div>
</div>
There are <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/tips-on-choosing-a-free-photo-editor-for-post-processing/">free and simple programs</a>
 like Picasa, which have their limits, but are good for those just 
starting out. Then there are the big guns like Photoshop and Lightroom, 
which can be daunting for beginners, but it’s worth learning even just 
the basics of these programs, if you intend to get serious about your 
photography at some point. As with getting off Auto settings, it’s not 
as difficult as it may seem at first, and the internet is bursting with 
free tutorials on pretty much any program you choose.<br />

<h2>
Have fun</h2>
This is the best and most important part of photography, the enjoyment of it.<br />

Don’t get bogged down by unsuccessful attempts, or by comparing 
yourself to professionals. Even the best photographers in the world were
 beginners at some point. Just keep taking photographs, keep learning, 
keep challenging yourself, and above all keep enjoying the fun you can 
have with photography.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">source: <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/photography-tips-absolute-beginners/">http://digital-photography-school.com/photography-tips-absolute-beginners/</a></span>

Photography Tips for Absolute Beginners

So you have decided you might like to try getting into photography, you have either just acquired a new camera or are about to, where do yo...

Photographing Birds in Flight

Shovon Lal Saha

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Title: Photographing Birds in Flight
Author: Shovon Lal Saha
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Ospreys are great subjects when they burst out from under the surface of a lake As a teenager, I was hooked on motor ...

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<img alt="Osprey: by David Tipling" class=" wp-post-image" height="400" src="http://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/12/2015/07/Osprey-by-David-Tipling-600x400.jpg" width="600" />      <div class="wp-caption-text">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Ospreys are great subjects when they burst out from under the surface of a lake</span> </div>
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   As a teenager, I was hooked on motor racing and became a frequent 
visitor to Brands Hatch in Kent. This ignited my passion for taking 
pictures, which I discovered I was good at. My first published pictures 
were of a sequence showing a Formula Ford rolling into the barriers. 
Quick reactions, a good panning technique and anticipation are skills I 
honed beside the track. And it is those same skills I use today to 
capture images of flying birds.<br />
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Taking a good shot of a bird in flight can seem daunting, and the 
smaller the bird the more difficult it becomes. Yet having some 
knowledge of bird behaviour goes a long way.<br />
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For example, ducks, geese and swans will send plenty of signals your 
way before they take flight. A shake or bob of the head is a signal to 
other birds in their group of impending departure – and a signal to you 
to get ready to capture take-off. Similarly, birds of prey will often 
defecate and ruffle their feathers before taking flight. These are just 
two examples of behaviour that, if you understand what you are seeing, 
will give you a head start.<br />

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<a href="https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/12/2015/07/Herring-gull-by-David-Tipling.jpg"><br />
<img alt="Herring gull: by David Tipling" class="size-full wp-image-57279" height="432" src="https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/12/2015/07/Herring-gull-by-David-Tipling.jpg" width="650" /></a><div class="wp-caption-text">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">A herring gull captured at the moment it took off</span></div>
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Smaller birds can be attracted to a bird feeder or to water, and 
perches can be manipulated so flight photography is made easier.<br />
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If food is put out regularly, then individual birds are likely to 
have favoured approaches to the perch, offering a chance to capture the 
action as they approach. A technique I use for taking shots of garden 
birds in flight requires hanging three or more feeders for a few days 
and then removing all but one of the feeders when I’m ready to 
photograph them. This can create a queuing system and the birds will 
squabble among themselves for food. It will also encourage birds to 
hover and slow up as they look for a spot to land.<br />
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Using food to encourage birds to fly can be taken a step further at 
your local park. Try throwing bread to birds that are used to people. 
Ducks can be fed on one side of a lake, and then be tempted to fly to 
the other side if you change position. Being inventive can go a long way
 to devising a shot.<br />

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<a href="https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/12/2015/07/Turtle-doves-by-David-Tipling.jpg"><br />
<img alt="Turtle doves: by David Tipling" class="size-full wp-image-57281" height="414" src="https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/12/2015/07/Turtle-doves-by-David-Tipling.jpg" width="650" /></a><div class="wp-caption-text">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Turtle doves fighting over Norfolk in June</span></div>
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By visiting a park or photographing in your garden, you don’t 
necessarily need a long telephoto lens for capturing great shots. There 
are plenty of other opportunities, too, where shorter lenses are likely 
to be better for more interesting images, such as starlings coming in to
 roost in winter. These birds create those wonderful murmurations in the
 sky, with hotspots including Brighton Pier in East Sussex, Aberystwyth 
Pier in Ceredigion, Gretna in Dumfries and Galloway, and the Somerset 
Levels.<br />
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In order to take great shots of birds in flight, you need a good 
autofocus capability. Lens choice is key here, as too short a focal 
length and you will struggle for image size, while too long and it 
becomes more difficult to track a fast-flying bird through the 
viewfinder. I tend to use a 300mm or 400mm lens for most of my flight 
shots, and being able to handhold is a great advantage over trying to 
shoot from a tripod. However, having said that, a heavier 600mm or 800mm
 lens will work well on a gimbal head, where smooth panning can be 
achieved.<br />

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<a href="https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/12/2015/07/Rufous-tailed-hummingbird-by-David-Tipling.jpg"><br />
<img alt="Rufous tailed hummingbird: by David Tipling" class="size-full wp-image-57285" height="438" src="https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/12/2015/07/Rufous-tailed-hummingbird-by-David-Tipling.jpg" width="650" /></a><div class="wp-caption-text">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">A rufous-tailed hummingbird captured in Ecuador</span></div>
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Focusing</h2>
The intricacies of focus-point selection, along with the pros and 
cons of using the back-focus button, are much discussed among bird 
photographers. However, there are some basic tips that will increase 
your success rate.<br />
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You’ll want the camera to constantly update focus as you track your 
subject, so continuous AF is a given, but to ensure you maintain focus 
you need to keep the focus sensor on your subject as it moves. This is 
far easier when tracking a bird against a clear-blue sky than if your 
target is flying against hills or trees, as the more contrast there is 
between the subject and the background, the better the autofocus will 
work.<br />
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Some camera bodies allow you to activate clusters of sensors within 
the frame to help keep track of erratic flight. Different photographers 
use different techniques and you should experiment with your camera 
body’s capabilities. I tend to use one central focus sensor most of the 
time, but this is a personal preference, as is the use of the back-focus
 button, also known as rear focus.<br />

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<a href="https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/12/2015/07/Hawk-owl-by-David-Tipling.jpg"><br />
<img alt="Hawk owl: by David Tipling" class="size-full wp-image-57280" height="487" src="https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/12/2015/07/Hawk-owl-by-David-Tipling.jpg" width="650" /></a><div class="wp-caption-text">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Using rear focus helped to capture this hawk owl heading directly towards the camera</span></div>
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Placement of your focusing sensor is crucial when photographing large
 birds in flight, as the aim is to have your subject’s eye sharp because
 this is the focal point in the picture to which a viewer’s eye is first
 drawn. It is easy to end up focusing on the end of the near wing, which
 may put the bird’s body in soft focus. To try to mitigate this, I use a
 large depth of field if I can with the light available.<br />
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For smaller birds, this is not so much of a problem unless they are 
filling the frame. Whatever depth of field you use, if you want sharp 
images, for birds larger than crows and ducks, you will be able to 
freeze wing movement with a shutter speed of 1/500sec or faster. For 
smaller birds, you will need 1/1000sec or more.<br />
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Finally, if your camera fires very rapidly, such as 10fps, and if you
 keep firing at a bird flying fast, you may not give your autofocus a 
chance to keep up. This is due to the autofocus sensors working at their
 optimum when the camera’s mirror is down. The faster the frame rate, 
the less time your autofocus has to keep up, so I suggest firing in 
short bursts while tracking your subject.<br />

<h2>
Blur or freeze?</h2>
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<a href="https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/12/2015/07/Pink-footed-geese-freeze-by-David-Tipling.jpg"><br />
<img alt="Pink footed geese - freeze: by David Tipling" class="wp-image-57288 size-full" height="418" src="https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/12/2015/07/Pink-footed-geese-freeze-by-David-Tipling.jpg" width="650" /></a><div class="wp-caption-text">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Freeze</span></div>
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<a href="https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/12/2015/07/Pink-footed-geese-blur-by-David-Tipling.jpg"><img alt="Pink footed geese - blur: by David Tipling" class="size-full wp-image-57289" height="419" src="https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/12/2015/07/Pink-footed-geese-blur-by-David-Tipling.jpg" width="650" /></a><div class="wp-caption-text">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Blur</span></div>
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You can create a different feel to a picture simply by freezing the 
action or allowing it to blur into a pleasing wash of colour. These 
pink-footed geese were feeding on a field for five days and would 
periodically take off as a flock. This allowed repeated opportunities to
 experiment with varying shutter speeds to create both blurs and sharp 
images.<br />
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<span><span style="font-size: xx-small;">source : <a href="http://www.amateurphotographer.co.uk/technique/wildlife_photography/photographing-birds-in-flight-57427">http://www.amateurphotographer.co.uk/technique/wildlife_photography/photographing-birds-in-flight-57427</a></span></span></div>
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Photographing Birds in Flight

Ospreys are great subjects when they burst out from under the surface of a lake As a teenager, I was hooked on motor ...

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