PHOTOGRAPHY

How to Photograph (Moody) Teenagers

Shovon Lal Saha

Link Author

Title: How to Photograph (Moody) Teenagers
Author: Shovon Lal Saha
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

How to Photograph (Moody) Teenagers One common thread I find in nearly all of my friends’ photo albums is this: lots of pictures of babie...

<h2 class="post-title single">
How to Photograph (Moody) Teenagers</h2>
<a href="http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Guardian/Pix/pictures/2014/8/18/1408374760249/Teenage-boy-on-phone-012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Guardian/Pix/pictures/2014/8/18/1408374760249/Teenage-boy-on-phone-012.jpg" width="320" /></a>One common thread I find in nearly all of my friends’ photo 
albums is this: lots of pictures of babies, <br />
toddlers and school-aged 
children. Not so many pictures of teenagers. It’s a very sad fact that 
as children grow, they start to like mom or dad’s camera less and less. 
Now, the camera on their smartphone is another story – I’m pretty sure 
there’s no such thing as a teenager who doesn’t take selfies. But family
 photos are a different problem altogether.<br />
<br />
If your teenager ducks, hides, shields her face or otherwise retreats
 every time you lift the camera, you need some advice. Here are some 
ideas you can use to get great photos of your moody teenager.<br />
<span id="more-5497"></span><br />
<h2>
Why teenagers hate (your) cameras</h2>
Well, that’s a tough question and I would certainly hate to 
generalize. Some teenagers are just shy, and that’s ample enough reason 
to avoid a camera. Others don’t like the way they look in 
photographs—you remember the teenaged years, of course, did you feel 
your best with your brand new not-so-perfect complexion and awkward, 
angly teenaged body? And some teenagers don’t want to be photographed 
just because, well, they don’t. Pausing for a photograph is, in a way, 
relinquishing control of a small part of your life, and one thing 
teenagers are constantly rebelling against is those adults who are still
 trying to exercise some control over their lives.<br />
<br />
These same teenagers, of course, will happily pose for a selfie—because selfies are a much safer sort of portrait.
 When you shoot a selfie you don’t have to use it, show it to anyone or 
hang onto it at all unless you’re completely happy with it. You can open
 it up in your favorite photo editing app and clone out the imperfect 
skin, or give yourself a soft glow, or whatever it is you feel like you 
need to do to improve the portrait. That picture your mom shot of you on
 a family trip to the beach, on the other hand, you have no control over
 that one. For all you know, your mom is going to put it straight onto 
Facebook without ever consulting you. So you definitely don’t want to 
let her take pictures of you if you can avoid it. <br />
<img src="http://cdn.digital-photo-secrets.com/images/teenager-saying-no-photos.jpg" />
<br />
<h2>
Making your teenager feel more comfortable with your camera</h2>
One thing you can do right away to help make your teenager 
comfortable with the idea of having his photo taken is this: talk to 
him. Now, I know that talking to a teenager is sometimes easier said 
than done, but if you can catch him in a good mood just casually mention
 that you’d like to know what his ground rules are about family photos. 
Notice how you’re not going to be saying anything like, “William, you 
really need to let me get one or two photos of you at your cousin’s 
birthday party,” instead you’re going to put him in control of the 
situation: “What ground rules would you like to lay down for photos?” 
For example, you could promise to let him select the best images, and 
delete the worst ones. Or you could promise not to ambush him with your 
camera or lie in wait—instead, agree that he’ll let you get one shot of 
him with his cousin, or that you’ll give him a heads-up if you’re going 
to take a picture. You might find that when he’s in control of when the 
shutter opens, you’ll get a lot more nice photos of him and a lot fewer 
pictures of the back of his head or the backside of his hand.<br />
<br />
If he’s still reluctant, make a schedule. Agree that you’ll get to 
have one photo shoot with him every six months. Tell him that family 
outings are fair game, but that you won’t take photos of him doing 
mundane things (like his homework) unless you first ask permission. The 
key to keeping your teen in your family album is to make him comfortable
 with the idea of photographs. That is, he shouldn’t feel like he might 
get assaulted at any moment by you and your DSLR. He should feel like 
those photographs are only going to happen on his terms.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://cdn.digital-photo-secrets.com/images/young-handsome-teenager-blue.jpg" /><br />
<br />
If you’re planning to do a formal photo shoot with your teen, let her
 pick out her own outfit. You can give yourself veto power, but use it 
sparingly and only if you really think the outfit she settles on is 
inappropriate. Let her choose any props, accessories or other items she 
might want to wear or include in the photos. You may even find that she 
starts to have fun just getting ready for the shoot, and that’s going to
 make the event itself go a lot more smoothly.<br />
<h2>
Don’t tell him to “say cheese”</h2>
That’s just about the worst thing you can say to a teenager when 
you’ve got a camera pointed at him. Now, I often argue that it’s just 
about the worst thing you can say to any portrait subject, because it 
results in fake-looking smiles and awkward looking images. But no 
self-respecting teenager is ever going to say the word “cheese,” unless 
he’s ordering a cheeseburger.<br />
<br />
Instead, ask him to talk about something he enjoys. If he plays 
football, ask him what happened at the last practice. If he plays an 
instrument, ask him about the material he’s learning. If he plays 
Minecraft, ask him about that, too. I know kids who will talk about 
Minecraft for more hours than they actually spend playing it. The bottom
 line is this: everyone has passions, so find out what your subject’s 
passions are (that will be easier if he or she is your own child, of 
course) and the smiles will naturally follow.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://cdn.digital-photo-secrets.com/images/close-up-of-teen-boy-smiling.jpg" />
<br />
<h2>
Go wild</h2>
Depending on the kid, of course, some teenagers can be convinced to 
loosen up if you make crazy suggestions. Have her jump or turn quickly 
towards the camera so that her hair flies around a little. Throw some 
confetti over her head (you might need a helper for that one). Tell a 
joke (hint: teenagers don’t always laugh at the same jokes that adults 
laugh at). Or you could even ask her to help you come up with completely
 crazy ideas for photo shoots—chances are you’re going to get as many 
great photos during the brainstorming process as you would if you 
actually did use any of her crazy suggestions.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://cdn.digital-photo-secrets.com/images/beautiful-girl-gymnastick-jump.jpg" />
<br />
<h2>
Extremely reluctant subjects</h2>
The sad truth is that there are some kids who, no matter what you do,
 are never really going to warm up to the camera. Smiling just isn’t 
something they do in the presence of adults. Don’t worry, that doesn’t 
mean that you just can’t get any photos of them. You really must learn 
how not to accept defeat.<br />
Try to be OK with photos that don’t include smiles. Remember that 
this too shall pass—very few non-smiling teenagers grow up to be 
non-smiling adults. So try to embrace this short and moody phase of 
their lives, and give them something to look at or to do with their 
hands while you’re shooting photos. If your subject plays the guitar, 
have her sit down with her guitar and play a song. If he’s a bookworm, 
photograph him with his favorite book. If he plays soccer, don’t just 
ask him to pose with the ball, get him to juggle it.<br />
<br />
If you just can’t stand that moody frown, you can also zoom in
 and shoot the details. If she likes to journal, for example, you could 
get a shot of her hand holding a pen while she writes in her favorite 
notebook. If she’s an artist, you could take a picture over her shoulder
 of her latest work-in-progress. You could photograph her shoes, get a 
close shot of her eye, or capture a picture of her hands in her pockets.
 Just because her face isn’t in the shot doesn’t mean the shot isn’t 
meaningful—in fact there’s a very good argument to be made that detail 
shots have greater meaning that that deadpan stare that she adopts 
whenever she sees your camera. The details can give your viewer 
information about who your teenager really is—the things she loves, the 
clothes she wears, and the activities that occupy her spare time.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://cdn.digital-photo-secrets.com/images/girl-writing-notebook.jpg" />
<br />
<h2>
Think cool</h2>
I know, your teenager thinks you are the opposite of cool. So don’t 
try to be cool just for the photo shoot, because the best expression 
you’ll get out of that is an eye-roll. That doesn’t mean, though, that 
you can’t try to capture images that your teenager will think is cool. 
Look for unusual angles—shots
 from down low, backlit portraits, or silhouettes, for example. Kids 
wearing shades and hoodies can also make for cool photos—anything that 
looks a little offbeat or eccentric is probably going to be viewed 
favorably by your subject. <br />
<h2>
Conclusion</h2>
I’m not saying it’s going to be easy. It’s almost certainly not going
 to be easy, unless your teen has aspirations towards becoming a model. 
You need patience to get good photos of your teenager, but more than 
that you need compromise, erring on the side of letting child do what 
makes her more comfortable. Once you get her to accept the idea of the 
photograph, the promise of some camera-free homework time might be 
enough to encourage her to relax and pose for some non-selfie photos, on
 her own terms.<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> source : <a href="http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/5497/photograph-moody-teenagers/">http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/5497/photograph-moody-teenagers/</a> </span>

How to Photograph (Moody) Teenagers

How to Photograph (Moody) Teenagers One common thread I find in nearly all of my friends’ photo albums is this: lots of pictures of babie...

5 Tips to Help You Take More Natural Looking Portraits

Shovon Lal Saha

Link Author

Title: 5 Tips to Help You Take More Natural Looking Portraits
Author: Shovon Lal Saha
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

You’ve probably seen those beautiful portraits where couples are embracing, and laughing naturally off-camera, or two children are skip...

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS2OVg-r6O77sRmvJOzb995eQOdXFyfTmRw0uZREX0pxbYSdJKsjMLyWCST0FM6MdC7mUV4PZzppJGGjKEg0Xy79r1E55QA6VWxtSPN6_b5pnU806JzX_dAtYGC1n5YNfq8M6P6_pQ6BpF/s1600/photography-photoobest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS2OVg-r6O77sRmvJOzb995eQOdXFyfTmRw0uZREX0pxbYSdJKsjMLyWCST0FM6MdC7mUV4PZzppJGGjKEg0Xy79r1E55QA6VWxtSPN6_b5pnU806JzX_dAtYGC1n5YNfq8M6P6_pQ6BpF/s640/photography-photoobest.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
You’ve probably seen those beautiful portraits where couples are 
embracing, and laughing naturally off-camera, or two children are 
skipping up the beautiful country lane-way, bathed in the most perfect 
light. Everything in the image looks flawless, yet it still seems like 
the photographer just happened to be walking past at the exact right 
moment to capture the perfect shot.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieVLSfnlvWojau-7EkPPxRUw8qiCH_oC4MX6-OM5ssS8ACOM1xoL8v7QYAdG2FKq5VPkdPdFBKQ_RaRGb8oJNXrNyCnAnM05DZYp3dtnKXenP0gjo7Wn87vgHBjEUbNlITYfBHdKiUSRFQ/s1600/photography-photoobest.bird.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="363" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieVLSfnlvWojau-7EkPPxRUw8qiCH_oC4MX6-OM5ssS8ACOM1xoL8v7QYAdG2FKq5VPkdPdFBKQ_RaRGb8oJNXrNyCnAnM05DZYp3dtnKXenP0gjo7Wn87vgHBjEUbNlITYfBHdKiUSRFQ/s640/photography-photoobest.bird.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
So why is it when I try and capture those perfect candid moments 
someone always has their eyes closed, hair is covering half of their 
face, or the lighting is wrong, or worse still an unsuspecting passerby 
in bright pink sweat pants walks through the background of the shot.<br />
<br />
<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 727px;">
<img alt="Lifestyle 2" border="0" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Lifestyle_2.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="Lifestyle_2.jpg" /><br />
<div class="wp-caption-text">
<br /></div>
<div class="wp-caption-text" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #444444;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">In
 this image I gave each model one action to repeat over and over, to 
achieve a natural candid feel. (The Footy Show cast – image courtesy 
Nine Network Australia)</span></span></span></div>
<div class="wp-caption-text">
<br /></div>
</div>
Getting realistic and natural looking shots can be really tricky. If I
 set up the shot, and try and direct certain poses and reactions, the 
shots can look really stiff and contrived. If I try and get people to 
laugh on cue, it tends to look fake.<br />
<br />
I can always leave it to chance in the hope that the people I’m 
working with do something worth photographing but this isn’t always an 
option. So what’s the best way to get people to look natural on camera? 
Here are my five favorite and most successful techniques to help you 
take more natural looking portraits:<br />
<h2>
1. Check your mood</h2>
People tend to mirror, and reflect the mood of the photographer, so 
if you are having a bad day or feeling grumpy, then your models are 
going to pick up on that vibe. If you want happy and excited looking 
expressions, then you need to have that vibe yourself. If you are not 
feeling it before the shoot, for whatever reason (stuff happens right?) 
then do whatever it takes to put yourself in a good mood. Listen to a 
funny podcast on the commute in, call a friend who makes you laugh, read
 funny stuff. Eat half a jar of Nutella (don’t judge me).<br />
<img alt="WW14 192" border="0" height="640" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/WW14-192.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="WW14-192.jpg" width="426" /><br />
<h2>
2. If you want people to laugh genuinely, then give them something to laugh about</h2>
I’m constantly wisecracking through the shoot, and ever ready to 
capture the expressions as the joke hits. The best way to do this is to 
set up your models in the position you want them, start with serious 
poses, and then throw in a funny remark between frames.<br />
<br />
You don’t even need to be that funny for this technique to work. You 
only really need two or three good jokes, or lines, that will crack a 
group of people up. I’ve been using the same lines for years and they 
still work. The important part is that you make them your own, and it’s 
something you would say, or feel comfortable saying.<br />
<h2>
3. Laugh with people</h2>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><img alt="GB MEL14 750" border="0" height="520" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/GB_MEL14_750.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="GB_MEL14_750.jpg" width="346" /></td>
<td><img alt="Lifestyle 3" border="0" height="520" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Lifestyle_3.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="Lifestyle_3.jpg" width="363" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br />
To get this image of the Dalton family (above) I actually just 
started laughing with them. Laughing with your models is infectious. I 
felt a bit embarrassed doing it at the start, but soon discovered it was
 totally worth the genuine laughs, and reactions I got. (The Dalton 
Family/Foxtel)<br />
<br />
Another great trick to make models laugh is I actually ask my models 
to laugh, and will start laughing with them. This always starts out 
really awkward, everyone laughs uncomfortably, and at first they are 
laughing at me. But, after a while, everyone is laughing with me, and 
I’m always able to capture some genuine and beautiful laughing shots.<br />
<h2>
4. Give each person something to repeat</h2>
<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 727px;">
<img alt="Lifestyle 4" border="0" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Lifestyle_4.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="Lifestyle_4.jpg" /><br />
<div class="wp-caption-text">
<br /></div>
<div class="wp-caption-text" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #444444;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">In
 this image, I gave each of the girls a specific action and eye-line, 
while they walked toward my camera. The client wanted a fun, positive, 
natural-looking shot. If this sort of image is left to chance, all the 
girls end up looking in the same direction, or have the wrong facial 
expression.</span></span></span></div>
<div class="wp-caption-text">
<br /></div>
</div>
Try and give everyone in the group a set of actions to repeat as you 
shoot. This makes it easier to control the group, and keep the shape of 
the shot you are trying to get. I find I have greater success when I 
give each model only one action to repeat, and a direction to look 
toward.<br />
An example of the direction I gave for the girls walking above would be:<br />
<ul>
<li>Girl A (use their real names or course!): Walk towards me, look into
 the camera and smile at me like you’ve just seen your best friend</li>
<li>Girl B: Walk towards camera and smile over at girl A</li>
<li>Girl C: Tell a story, and gesture with your hands and look over at girl B</li>
<li>Girl D: Laugh to yourself and walk towards camera</li>
</ul>
<h2>
5. Keep talking, coaxing, encouraging, directing</h2>
People perceive silence from a photographer as a sign that you are unhappy with what they are doing.<br />
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><img alt="PPTS Women 0035" border="0" height="532" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/PPTS_Women_0035.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="PPTS_Women_0035.jpg" width="355" /></td>
<td><img alt="PPTS Men 0026W" border="0" height="532" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/PPTS_Men_0026W.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="PPTS_Men_0026W.jpg" width="355" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
What’s your favorite technique for getting natural looking portraits?
 Do you have any great tricks we could all try? I’d love to hear about 
them. Please share any others in the comments below as well as your 
images of natural looking portraits you’re proud of.<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">source : <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/5-tips-to-help-you-take-more-natural-looking-portraits/">http://digital-photography-school.com/5-tips-to-help-you-take-more-natural-looking-portraits/</a></span>

5 Tips to Help You Take More Natural Looking Portraits

You’ve probably seen those beautiful portraits where couples are embracing, and laughing naturally off-camera, or two children are skip...

How To Take Great Nature Photos

Shovon Lal Saha

Link Author

Title: How To Take Great Nature Photos
Author: Shovon Lal Saha
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

Whether you’re taking a picture of a geranium in your backyard garden or a grizzly bear in the Rocky Mountains, capturing a great photo out...

Whether you’re taking a picture of a geranium in your backyard garden or
 a grizzly bear in the Rocky Mountains, capturing a great photo outdoors
 means working with Mother Nature, and not trying to impose your 
photographic will upon her.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://api.ning.com/files/D4tgE4d4mNrpW1VE7wB1iA*7zFCePzKZONoWcrsu-ezmcaktdSFk8NHmM0EkeStDgTlzvV2hTAKureWAhCZv7e-fvgfdYze5/15708267088_4713b1da02_o2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="442" src="http://api.ning.com/files/D4tgE4d4mNrpW1VE7wB1iA*7zFCePzKZONoWcrsu-ezmcaktdSFk8NHmM0EkeStDgTlzvV2hTAKureWAhCZv7e-fvgfdYze5/15708267088_4713b1da02_o2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
So many factors come into play when taking a nature photograph—sun, 
clouds, wind, rain, sleet or snow—and if you’re photographing animals in
 their native habitat, you’ve got noise, odors, and movement to deal 
with.<br />
<br />

It can get complex, but the enjoyment you’ll get by taking nature 
photography seriously will far outweigh the extra time and effort you 
put into it. Rather than just clicking a snapshot of your sugar maple in
 all its fall glory, you’ll have a photo you’d be proud to hang on your 
wall as a piece of art. Or, you might even become so good that you’ll 
find yourself selling some of your better photos.<br />
<br />

After all, everyone loves a great nature photo. It’s easy for viewers
 to put themselves into the picture. Even if they’ve never been to the 
mountains, people enjoy looking at pictures of mountains because it 
transports them, at least for a brief moment, to a peaceful place.<br />
<br />

So in order to help you get the most out of the time you spend 
outdoors with your camera, here are five fundamental tips for taking 
better nature photos. As a photographer, I’ve learned that if you 
approach your outdoor photography with the right mindset, you’re certain
 to succeed, oftentimes in ways you never expected.<br />
<br />
<strong>Understand the nature of nature.</strong> There’s an old 
saying, “You can’t fight Mother Nature.” Plan on working with the 
elements of the natural environment you photograph. A backyard squirrel 
might not blink at the sound of your shutter. But a rarely seen black 
squirrel sitting in the woods 50 miles from the nearest road might run 
upon hearing the same click.<br />
<br />

Animals, trees, bushes, grass—everything associated with nature 
functions uniquely in different weather conditions. If you’re looking 
for a “money” shot, you need to understand the conditions you’re working
 in, and the subject matter you are photographing.<br />
<br />

I recall walking along a large pond in a forest clearing many years 
ago. I was looking up for a shot, but saw nothing remarkable. Then I 
looked down and realized there was a fantastic shot right at my feet. It
 was of some green algae that had formed in the corner of the pond. It 
was a beautiful color, and it contrasted nicely with the water. It ended
 up being one of my most popular shots.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5313/5914521047_17cfd63e57_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5313/5914521047_17cfd63e57_z.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<strong>Be prepared.</strong> Study the area you plan on 
photographing, even if it’s your own backyard. Watch how the light plays
 on your flowers at different times of the day, and under different 
cloud conditions. Pay attention to the patterns of birds. Animals are 
creatures of habit, and weather and light is somewhat predictable.<br />
<br />

The same goes if you plan on venturing out into the wilderness. Get 
familiar with the local surroundings by talking to locals, watching 
weather reports on the Internet or TV, and by just taking some time to 
familiarize yourself with your surroundings.<br />
<br />

<strong>Know your equipment.</strong> If you’re trying to get a close
 up shot of a deer in the wild, even if you’re using a telephoto lens, 
turn off your autofocus, autoflash, and motordrive. Get to know your 
camera settings, from the f-stop and shutter speed to the ISO settings.<br />
<br />

<strong> Experiment at home and in the field.</strong> After buying a
 new camera, I like to take a number of shots just around the house, in a
 variety of conditions. Spend about an hour or so walking around your 
home and yard, instruction manual in hand, and try out all the features.
 Use different exposures and settings. Do this as a refresher from time 
to time as well. It’s worth the effort.<br />
<br />

<strong>Be patient.</strong> Natural events happen when they happen. 
You’re not going to rush that beaver out of his watery den any faster. 
The perfect glint of sunlight playing off your prize rose bushes will 
not happen any sooner or later than you want it to. Keep your camera at 
the ready, and don’t force the shot. You may arrive five minutes too 
late for a great shot, but you may be five minutes early for the perfect
 shot.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8715/16720507370_2465886b1b_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8715/16720507370_2465886b1b_z.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<strong>Have an outcome in mind, but be ready for the unexpected.</strong>
 If you go out looking for cardinals in the forest, you’re likely to 
find some. So be ready by having a telephoto lens, a tripod if 
necessary, perhaps a birding book to help with recognition, and 
something comfortable to sit on. Take food for yourself—don’t feed the 
animals!—and water. Picture the shot you want in your mind’s eye. You’ll
 often get something close.<br />
<br />

But don’t close your mind to other possibilities. The sun may be 
absolutely perfect at that time of day, and you could get a stunning 
picture of rays of sunlight piercing the forest canopy. Ansel Adams’ 
famous “Moonrise over Hernandez” was taken while he was driving down a 
highway. He stopped the car, jumped out, grabbed his camera, took one 
shot … and nailed it because he was ready for the unexpected.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://api.ning.com/files/JWVmD*3ooUfz9nYyc476IU0Px1Hs33t7auqGStYahLpHY1Pz8irdTch9xwgT5N*7G5diGPZ0ClWHdpiWytanJBorAqXHoz1M/3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="584" src="http://api.ning.com/files/JWVmD*3ooUfz9nYyc476IU0Px1Hs33t7auqGStYahLpHY1Pz8irdTch9xwgT5N*7G5diGPZ0ClWHdpiWytanJBorAqXHoz1M/3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
I had a similar experience. It was night, and I was just walking 
around my area looking for a good picture. I had been walking awhile, 
ready to give up and go home, when a flash of light caught my eye. I 
came upon a building site of a multi-story building. The welders were 
getting in some overtime, working on the 8th or 9th floor. The sparks 
from their welding were arcing out from the side of the building and 
down to the ground. It made for a beautiful picture, and one I would 
have never gotten if I hadn’t been ready for the unexpected.<br />
<br />

When it comes to photographing anything in the great outdoors, don’t 
let yourself be fooled into thinking you can control your subject 
matter. All you can control is your equipment and your knowledge about 
the subject matter. So with the right camera, an understanding of 
nature, and some patience, you’re likely to get the recognition you’re 
looking for as an outstanding outdoor photographer.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">source : <a href="http://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/how-to-take-great-nature-photos/">http://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/how-to-take-great-nature-photos/</a></span>

How To Take Great Nature Photos

Whether you’re taking a picture of a geranium in your backyard garden or a grizzly bear in the Rocky Mountains, capturing a great photo out...

Night Photography : Try It

Shovon Lal Saha

Link Author

Title: Night Photography : Try It
Author: Shovon Lal Saha
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

Why do so many casual and amateur photographers shy away from taking pictures once the sun...

<div class="share share-top">
        <div class="share-facebook">
         <div class="fb-like fb_iframe_widget" data-action="like" data-href="http://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/try-night-photography/" data-layout="standard" data-share="true" data-show-faces="true" data-width="450">
<span style="height: 25px; vertical-align: bottom; width: 450px;"></span></div>
</div>
</div>
Why do so many casual and amateur photographers shy away from 
taking pictures once the sun goes down? Haven’t they seen the great 
pictures taken at night by other photographers? Maybe they think those 
type pictures can only be made by professional photographers with 
thousands of dollars worth of equipment. Well that line of thinking is 
not true at all.<br />
<br />

<div class="wp-caption alignright" id="attachment_24736" style="width: 320px;">
<div class="wp-caption-text">
“Ooooh oui… oh la la la…!” captured by <a href="http://www.picturesocial.com/profile/bryangwong" target="_blank">Bryan</a></div>
</div>
Taking night shots is not as difficult as some may think. If you have
 a camera, a tripod, and a subject you can take some great night shots. 
That is, as long as there is some light available. It can be artificial 
light, moonlight, or ambient light from the atmosphere just after 
sunset.<br />
<br />

Night photography gives you a chance to have the type of shots that 
are out of the ordinary—not the same type pictures everyone else has.<br />

A few of the more popular night photography subjects are city 
skylines, well lit downtown areas, moonlit scenes, and tourist 
attraction areas. However, any scene in your own neighborhood or town 
that has some sort of light in it is fair game for night photography.<br />

</div>
</div>
<h4>
Timing</h4>
You don’t have to be out at midnight to take night shots. Some of the
 best night shots are taken right after the sun has set. Sure it’s dark,
 but there is still a little ambient light remaining from the sunset in 
the air. This is important because you might be able to record a little 
more detail in the shadow areas of the scene at this time of evening. As
 it gets later in the evening, many of the shadow areas will appear very
 dark or black with no detail unless there is some sort of artificial 
light around that area.<br />

<h4>
Camera</h4>
What type camera will you need? A Digital Single Lens Reflex camera 
(DSLR) is the best choice for night photography. That’s because when 
using a DSLR camera you’ll have more control over the camera’s exposure 
settings. Taking pictures at night will require longer exposure times 
and a DSLR has more options for changing the exposure settings.<br />

<div class="wp-caption alignnone" id="attachment_24737" style="width: 580px;">
<a href="http://www.picturesocial.com/photo/union-station-6" target="_blank"><img alt="night photography" class="size-full wp-image-24737 " height="285" src="http://cdn.picturecorrect.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/night-photography2.jpg" title="night-photography2" width="570" /></a><div class="wp-caption-text">
“Union Station” captured by <a href="http://www.picturesocial.com/profile/TorreyGleave" target="_blank">Torrey</a></div>
</div>
However, you can also use a compact camera to take night pictures. 
Most digital compact cameras have some sort of night mode setting, such 
as night landscape. A night mode setting will keep the camera’s shutter 
open for longer periods of time so that the image sensor can absorb more
 light. The main problem with using a compact camera for night 
photography is that you won’t be able to choose the exposure settings. 
In spite of that, your camera’s automatic night mode setting may still 
be able to produce some good images at times.<br />

<h4>
Tripod</h4>
A tripod is a must! When taking pictures at night the cameras’ 
shutter can be open for seconds instead of fractions of a second. It is 
practically impossible to obtain a sharp image using a shutter speed of 
less than 1/30th of a second while the camera is being hand held. So 
make sure to use a tripod. Also try using your cameras’ self timer or a 
remote shutter release when using a tripod. The reason for that is 
because there may be some camera shake when your finger presses the 
shutter release even when the camera is on a tripod.<br />

<h4>
Camera Settings</h4>
What are the best camera exposure settings for night photography? 
There are no standard exposure settings for night photography. Just like
 daytime photography, the exposure settings for night photography will 
depend on the amount of available light in a scene.<br />

Get started by taking a shot of your night scene. You can start by 
using your camera’s automatic mode or any other mode you choose. Take a 
look at the result on the LCD screen. If the image is too light or dark,
 adjust your settings accordingly.<br />

If you’re using a DSLR camera, you will be able to manually change 
the camera aperture or shutter speed. If you’re using a compact digital 
camera, try using the exposure compensation EV+ or EV- feature. That 
will allow more or less light into the camera. (Note: You might not be 
able to use that feature while in a night mode.)<br />
<br />

<div class="wp-caption alignnone" id="attachment_24738" style="width: 580px;">
<a href="http://www.picturesocial.com/photo/lv-nite" target="_blank"><img alt="low light picture" class="size-full wp-image-24738 " height="377" src="http://cdn.picturecorrect.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/night-photography3.jpg" title="night-photography3" width="570" /></a><div class="wp-caption-text">
“LV@nite” captured by <a href="http://www.picturesocial.com/profile/JohnC" target="_blank">John C</a></div>
</div>
<h4>
Bracketing</h4>
Bracketing your exposures can be helpful when taking night shots. 
Bracketing your exposures means to take several shots of the same scene 
at different exposure settings. Take one or two that will be darker and 
one or two that will be lighter than the recommended exposure setting. 
You will then have more images to choose from when deciding which 
exposure setting was the best.<br />

Overall taking night pictures is not more difficult than taking 
pictures in the daytime. It might be a little challenging in the 
beginning but it will be a fun and exciting challenge. Once you know a 
little about camera exposure basics and the operation of your camera, 
you are well on your way to getting that great night shot.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">source : <a href="http://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/try-night-photography/">http://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/try-night-photography/</a></span>

Night Photography : Try It

Why do so many casual and amateur photographers shy away from taking pictures once the sun...

Photography Tips for Absolute Beginners

Shovon Lal Saha

Link Author

Title: Photography Tips for Absolute Beginners
Author: Shovon Lal Saha
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

So you have decided you might like to try getting into photography, you have either just acquired a new camera or are about to, where do yo...

So you have decided you might like to try getting into photography, 
you have either just acquired a new camera or are about to, where do you
 begin?<br />
<br />

Here are some photography tips for absolute beginners to help get you started:<br />

<h2>
Buying gear</h2>
Your gear does not make you a good photographer. If you are just 
starting out, a top of the line camera is likely to not ony be be a 
waste of money for you, but also make your learning process a bit 
trickier. A bit like buying a formula one race car to learn to drive.<br />

When you do want to buy gear, research first. It’s really helpful to 
take a look at some photography forums or articles here on dPS to find 
tips on <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/guide-to-buying-your-first-dslr/" target="_blank">beginner cameras</a>.
 Once you find something that sounds viable and fits your budget, read 
reviews, and again look to forums such as Flickr, where there is a chat 
group for nearly every brand or model of camera, and they are often more
 honest about any issues.<br />

The same applies to other gear like lighting. You don’t need to set 
yourself up with professional soft boxes to try studio lit portraits, 
you can try some of these <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/creating-effective-diy-studio-lighting-with-household-items/" target="_blank">DIY lighting tips</a>, or find some cheap beginner setups on Amazon or Ebay.<br />

<h2>
Take lots of photographs</h2>
<blockquote>
<em>“Your first ten thousand photographs are your worst”</em> – Henri Cartier-Bresson</blockquote>
As with any skill, the more you use it, the better you get. As you 
progress with your photography and look back on those early beginner 
shots you thought were fabulous, you’ll be able to see Mr. 
Cartier-Bresson was very right.<br />

<h2>
Read the manual</h2>
Camera manuals are at best, the most boring thing you have ever read 
in your life, with the possible exception of that friend that wanted you
 to read all 600 pages of their poetry about love and skin rashes.<br />

<div class="wp-caption aligncenter" id="attachment_91422" style="width: 727px;">
<img alt="Wile not an exciting read, going over the manual is very helpful." class="wp-image-91422 size-post-large-image" height="436" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/absolute-beginner-phtography-tips2-717x436.jpg" width="717" /><div class="wp-caption-text">
Camera manuals are not exactly a riveting read.</div>
</div>
It’s a good thing both in the beginning, and to refresh down the 
track, to know how this wonderful instrument (your camera) actually 
works. Even if you don’t recall all of it, that doesn’t matter, you will
 learn or be reminded of something helpful.<br />

Yet it’s such a hard thing to read that manual! So it’s best to place
 it somewhere where you can push through it in small instalments while 
you are passing some time such as: the bathroom, in the car if 
circumstances have you often sitting there waiting for the kids, or at 
work during lunch break. Just as long as you give that thing a good 
going over.<br />

<h2>
Workshops and courses</h2>
So you’ve got the photography bug. You might be thinking, “Ooooo! 
I’ll sign up to a bunch of courses, workshops, buy online courses.” It 
might seem like a good idea and while they can be fantastic, I don’t 
recommend going nuts with your enthusiasm, and signing up for courses 
and workshops the moment you get the photography buzz.<br />

You are currently reading one of the most useful photography sites on
 the entire internet. There is more information, tips and tutorials on 
this site, and others, than you will ever need to get you started and 
beyond. Once you get the hang of things, then you will have a better 
idea of the type of courses and workshops that would suit you. So I’m 
not saying don’t take a course – just wait until you know what suits 
your needs.<br />

<h2>
Connect with other photographers</h2>
This is invaluable, whether you sign up to an online group that use 
your brand of camera, or join a local camera club, your photography will
 progress faster, and it will be more fun with the help of fellow 
shutterbugs.<br />

<div class="wp-caption aligncenter" id="attachment_91429" style="width: 727px;">
<img alt="Even other beginners can help you learn new photography skills." class="wp-image-91429 size-post-large-image" height="528" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/absolute-beginner-phtography-tips-3r-717x528.jpg" width="717" /><div class="wp-caption-text">
Connecting with other photographers is a great way to learn more and get inspired.</div>
</div>
Camera clubs often have monthly competitions to practice with and 
sometimes organize photo tours, exhibitions and other activities. 
Talking with knowledgeable photographers or even fellow beginners can 
not only inspire, but also keep you motivated.<br />

Sign up to some reputable photography newsletters and Facebook pages,
 or even approach photographers you admire to ask questions. Most 
professional photographers don’t mind answering a few questions, as long
 as you are respectful and polite, and don’t demand too much of their 
time.<br />

<h2>
Try everything</h2>
You may have taken up photography with a certain style or subject in 
mind, but it can be helpful to try all styles. You never know what you 
might have a knack for, or what you will learn along the way.<br />

<h2>
Getting feedback</h2>
Your friends and family may love you but they will lie to you about 
your photography. Unless you have a very honest friend or family member 
who actually knows a bit about photography, it’s often more beneficial 
to get feedback from strangers.<br />

Signing up to a photo sharing site where others can comment on your 
work will get you mostly honest feedback, sometimes brutally so. I 
posted the image below on a feedback site some years ago. Aware the 
image had faults, I was keen to hear what someone else could point out 
for me, that I might not have seen after working so closely on the 
image.<br />

A fellow submitted a lengthy comment , basically pulled it apart, 
pointing out several (million it seemed) faults, he really went to town 
on it. But while the comments were brutal and borderline unkind, it was 
useful advice. All of which I ignored in regards to that image, but was 
useful for later attempts.<br />

<h2>
Enter free competitions</h2>
If you have loads of money to spend, and confidence in your work, by 
all means as a beginner enter some of the big competitions. You wouldn’t
 be the first to take out a major prize in the first few months of 
picking up a camera. But there are loads of free competitions out there 
for you to throw some images, at and see how they go. Have a read of 
this <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-win-a-photography-competition/" target="_blank">helpful guide</a> to entering competitions.<br />

<h2>
Aim to get off Auto settings</h2>
If you really want to be a good photographer, this is vital. No rush 
though! Just enjoy photographing in Auto Mode, and experiment with the 
settings as you go. Manual settings are not nearly as difficult as some 
beginners think. It can be a bit like learning to drive. In the 
beginning, it can be challenging to manage gears, indicators, and 
steering, all the while trying not veer off the road. But, with a bit of
 patience and practice, it becomes second nature. When you are ready to 
try manual settings there are plenty of <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/getting-off-auto-manual-aperture-and-shutter-priority-modes-explained/" target="_blank">beginner guides</a> and <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/cheat-sheet-getting-control-camera-manual-mode/" target="_blank">cheat sheets</a> here on dPS.<br />

<h2>
The digital darkroom</h2>
If you are really into your photography, you will need some sort of 
editing program. In the days of film photography you needed a darkroom 
and the use of heavy chemicals. But these days, thanks to modern 
technology, you can edit almost anywhere.<br />

<div class="wp-caption aligncenter" id="attachment_91430" style="width: 727px;">
<img alt="With today's digital darkroom you can edit your photo's pretty much anywhere and chemical free." class="wp-image-91430 size-post-large-image" height="453" src="http://digital-photography-school.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/absolute-beginner-phtography-tips-4r-717x453.jpg" width="717" /><div class="wp-caption-text">
These days your darkroom can even be in bed with some accompaniments.</div>
</div>
There are <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/tips-on-choosing-a-free-photo-editor-for-post-processing/">free and simple programs</a>
 like Picasa, which have their limits, but are good for those just 
starting out. Then there are the big guns like Photoshop and Lightroom, 
which can be daunting for beginners, but it’s worth learning even just 
the basics of these programs, if you intend to get serious about your 
photography at some point. As with getting off Auto settings, it’s not 
as difficult as it may seem at first, and the internet is bursting with 
free tutorials on pretty much any program you choose.<br />

<h2>
Have fun</h2>
This is the best and most important part of photography, the enjoyment of it.<br />

Don’t get bogged down by unsuccessful attempts, or by comparing 
yourself to professionals. Even the best photographers in the world were
 beginners at some point. Just keep taking photographs, keep learning, 
keep challenging yourself, and above all keep enjoying the fun you can 
have with photography.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">source: <a href="http://digital-photography-school.com/photography-tips-absolute-beginners/">http://digital-photography-school.com/photography-tips-absolute-beginners/</a></span>

Photography Tips for Absolute Beginners

So you have decided you might like to try getting into photography, you have either just acquired a new camera or are about to, where do yo...

How To Astrophotography

Shovon Lal Saha

Link Author

Title: How To Astrophotography
Author: Shovon Lal Saha
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

Don't put that camera away when it gets dark, get outside and take pictures! A whole universe of wonderful images awaits you. O...

<h4>
Don't put that camera away when it gets dark, get outside and take pictures! A whole universe of wonderful images awaits you.</h4>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/import/2008/files/_images/How-To-Astrophotography-101.jpg?itok=6lrCLWxa" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="390" src="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/import/2008/files/_images/How-To-Astrophotography-101.jpg?itok=6lrCLWxa" width="640" /></a></div>
<h4>
 </h4>
<div data-adafter="true">
Our cameras get most of their workouts during the
 daytime, when there's plenty of light from the sun to illuminate our 
subjects. If we shoot at night, it's usually with a flash attached to 
brighten things up, or with long exposures using man-made light from our
 streets or houses. That big dark sky above us at night seems to offer 
little that we can see or photograph... but that's not the case. There's
 not just a whole other world of things to take pictures of in that dark
 sky -- there's a whole universe of opportunity. This how-to article 
will provide the basics to let you start taking dramatic photos of the 
sky at night.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
Astrophotography is the name given to the process
 of taking pictures of anything not on the Earth, but out in space. Most
 of us probably think of images from the Hubble Space Telescope when the
 word is mentioned, but making good astrophotos doesn't require billions
 of dollars or a ride in the Space Shuttle. This article will show you 
how to start making photos with equipment almost every photographer has 
on hand, progress to the next level with some simple equipment you can 
buy inexpensively or make yourself, and finish with what you can do if 
you decide to invest in some specialized (and sometimes expensive) 
equipment.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
The first thing to remember when getting into 
astrophotography is that the earth rotates on its axis once per day. 
Obvious? Sure, but what it means for astrophotography is that you're 
never trying to capture a "still" object. The earth's rotation makes the
 stars, planets, and the moon appear to move across the sky all night 
long. The moon and planets also have their own motions, which complicate
 matters. And since most of the things we'd like to take photos of are 
awfully dim compared to a typical subject in the sunlight, we're going 
to have to use long exposure times to gather enough light to see them, 
and they'll be moving (or appearing to) the whole time. There are only 
two ways around this constant movement: ignore it, or compensate for it.</div>
<h4 data-adafter="true">
Fixed-Position Astrophotography</h4>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/import/2008/files/_images/Astrophotography-101-The-California-Nebula-in-the.jpg?itok=rcbMOIjM" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/import/2008/files/_images/Astrophotography-101-The-California-Nebula-in-the.jpg?itok=rcbMOIjM" width="640" /></a></div>
<h4 data-adafter="true">
 </h4>
<div data-adafter="true">
Let's start with what we can do by ignoring the 
earth's rotation. Shooting these kinds of photos only requires a camera 
capable of long exposures (a "B" or Bulb setting, or exposure settings 
from 30 seconds to several hours). The obvious example is "star trail" 
images.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
The earth rotates on its axis at about 1/2-degree
 per minute -- so the stars will appear to rotate that same amount 
overhead. If we set a camera on a fixed tripod, open the shutter, and 
let the earth rotate us under the stars, we get an image that shows the 
stars as "streaks" or trails as they appear to move across the sky. The 
longer we leave the shutter open, the longer the trails will be in our 
final image. The image shown here was exposed for about 60 minutes, 
giving 15-degrees of arc to each star trail. Notice in the image that 
near the center there appears to be almost no star-trailing, and as you 
move further out the star trails appear to get longer. That's because 
the camera was pointed right at the center of the earth's rotational 
axis: Polaris, or the North Star. Since this is the center of rotation, 
there's the least amount of apparent movement near this axis. As you 
move further away from this point, stars will appear to move more and 
more in a straight line until you reach the "celestial equator" 
(90-degrees from the North Star in the sky), where the trails are 
perfectly straight and will appear longer.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<b>Here's how to take star-trail photos:</b><br />
• Use a sturdy tripod, and secure it in place or weight it down if you 
can. Any movement of the tripod will show "squiggles" in your star 
trails.<br />
• Use a fairly wide-angle lens for best results, the 35mm equivalent of 20-50mm focal length is a good place to start.<br />
• Choose a medium-speed film or a digital-camera ISO of 400-800. That's 
high enough to record even fairly dim stars, but it shouldn't introduce 
too much grain or noise.<br />
• Set a medium aperture of f/5.6 to f/11. The stars won't change much in
 brightness no matter which aperture setting you use, but smaller 
apertures will reduce the brightness of "skyglow" from nearby towns or 
other light sources.<br />
• Select a dark location away from city lights if possible. Include 
something interesting in the foreground (such as the trees above) to 
give scale to the image and to help show the sky's apparent rotation 
against the earth.<br />
• Make sure you have new or freshly-charged batteries in your camera. 
Holding the shutter open for long periods drains batteries fast! If your
 camera has a DC car-power adapter, or a battery pack, use them.<br />
• Use a cable release or remote release, set manual focus, focus on 
infinity (put a small piece of masking tape on the lens' focus ring to 
hold it if you can), and open the camera's shutter. Leave it open as 
long as possible. Longer exposures mean longer star trails, but also 
pick up more "sky glow.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
Star-trail images can be spectacular, but due to 
the motion of the stars, they can be somewhat "abstract." What if you 
want to take an image of the stars as we actually see them?</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/import/2008/files/_images/Astrophotography-101-Stars-appear-to-circle-the-s.jpg?itok=96ADaSU0" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="482" src="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/import/2008/files/_images/Astrophotography-101-Stars-appear-to-circle-the-s.jpg?itok=96ADaSU0" width="640" /></a></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
As mentioned before, the stars appear to move at 
about 1/2-degree per minute across the sky. If we use a wide-angle lens 
(which has a wide field of view), you can leave the shutter open for a 
short while before that movement becomes visible in the image. The stars
 will still be "trails" in your picture, but the trails will be so small
 they're indistinguishable from single points. In the image above, I 
used a 14mm lens (with a field of view of 104-degrees horizontally and 
81-degrees vertically), and exposed for 30 seconds. In that time, the 
stars moved less than 1/4-degree, taking up less than 1/400th of the 
horizontal field of view. In the full-sized image you can see that 
they're little trails, but just barely. This kind of image shows the sky
 as we appear to see it with our eyes. Only the brightest stars will 
show up clearly this way, but as you can see from the image above you 
can clearly make out the constellation Orion, the Pleiades star cluster,
 and other constellations and stars.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<b>Here are some tips for shooting non-trailed fixed-position star images:</b><br />
• Use a very wide-angle lens -- the wider the better. At 28mm (35mm film
 equivalent) focal length, you can expose for about 20 seconds without 
significant trailing. At 50mm, you can only expose for about 10 seconds,
 which is only long enough to record the very brightest stars. At 14mm, 
you can shoot for 30 to 40 seconds, which should show more lower 
magnitude stars.<br />
• As with star-trail images, include something interesting in the 
foreground! The image above was shot on a night when the nearly-full 
moon was just rising in the east, and the camera was aimed west, away 
from the moon. The moon illuminated the foreground without washing out 
the sky.<br />
• The same setup rules apply as with star-trail images; use a sturdy tripod, a remote release, ISO 400-800, and f/5.6 to f/8.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
So far we've only looked at what we can do with a
 fixed tripod, with our camera still while the sky rotates above us. 
We're limited in what we can shoot that way. Most of the really 
interesting things in the sky are quite dim, so we need much longer 
exposure times in order to see them in our images... but longer exposure
 times mean the stars leave trails in our images.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
However, we can get longer exposure times without
 trails by mounting our camera to something that compensates for the 
Earth's rotation. If we could have some kind of rig that rotated around 
one axis (like the Earth does), align our rig's axis of rotation with 
the Earth's axis, and then rotate in the opposite direction the same 
speed as the earth rotates (about ½-degree per minute), then our camera 
would stay pointed at the same spot in the sky as the Earth rotated, and
 we could do longer exposures without having the stars trail.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
Hmm, that sounds pretty complicated, though. How 
can we make such a rig? Actually it's very simple, and all you need are a
 couple of boards, a hinge, and a couple of bolts... it's called a "Barn
 Door" mount.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
A Barn Door is simply two pieces of wood mounted 
around a simple hinge. At the end of the boards opposite the hinge, you 
put a screw-bolt through the bottom board in a threaded nut, so that it 
pushes the top board when you turn it. Using a simple formula, you can 
calculate how many turns per minute you need to give the screw to match 
the earth's speed of rotation. Line the hinge (the Barn Door's axis of 
rotation) up with the North Star (the Earth's axis of rotation), and you
 can very closely counteract the movement of the stars across the sky 
for fairly long lengths of time. With a Barn Door mount, you can use 
longer focal lengths (up to around 135mm) and exposure times of up to 
about 15 minutes and not see any star trailing -- all for about $10-$20 
in materials.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
Designs for Barn Doors vary from the ridiculously
 simple and inexpensive to deluxe versions with battery-operated drive 
motors (to save you from having to turn the screw manually). A simple 
single-arm version will track accurately for 10-15 minutes, while 
only-slightly-more-complex double-arm versions can track accurately for 
an hour or more! The Internet is rife with design possibilities; here 
are a few of the many that are worth looking at (I built the second one 
in the list below, and used it for the Milky Way photo above):</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
Anthony Galvan III's Simple Barn Door Mount<br />
Dave Trott's Motorized Double-Arm Drive</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
The next step up in "tracking" mounts from a Barn
 Door is a German Equatorial Mount. A GEM (sometimes acronyms are very 
fitting) in its simplest form is a tripod head that has two axes that 
rotate 90-degrees from each other. When you align the main axis with the
 Earth's celestial pole, it can be driven to counteract the Earth's 
rotation. The other rotational axis lets you position the camera or 
telescope anywhere in the sky while still maintaining the first axis' 
alignment with the Earth. Commercial equatorial mounts vary greatly in 
size, quality, and price; a decent-quality mount with a drive motor (to 
keep you from having to turn it by hand) that will support a camera and 
short lens can be purchased for under $200, while a higher-quality mount
 that will support long lenses or telescopes (and often includes a 
computerized control that will automatically point it to specified 
celestial objects) can cost between $1,000 and $10,000.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
Equatorial mounts can allow you to use longer 
focal lengths (using either camera lenses or telescopes) to "zoom in" on
 galaxies, star clusters, and nebulae. The image at left shows two 
telescopes mounted together on a mid-range (in both price and capacity) 
GEM, with the camera mounted on a 540mm FL telescope. Why two 
telescopes? Because once you start using focal lengths longer than 250mm
 or so, you must track the sky VERY accurately. Even a tracking error as
 little as a tenth of a degree can ruin an image, making stars look like
 little oblong streaks rather than nice, sharp points of light. Since 
even rather expensive GEM mounts are driven by mechanical gears, 
imperfect machining causes those gears to be slightly inaccurate, and 
produce tracking errors. To get a good image, these tracking errors have
 to be corrected. This is called "guiding."</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/import/2008/files/_images/Astrophotography-101-Imaging-and-guiding-telescop.jpg?itok=LoJG3lxb" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/import/2008/files/_images/Astrophotography-101-Imaging-and-guiding-telescop.jpg?itok=LoJG3lxb" width="480" /></a></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
Guiding an exposure involves looking through a 
separate telescope from the telescope or lens being used to take the 
picture. A telescope eyepiece with crosshairs embedded in it is used -- 
the photographer centers a star on the crosshairs, starts an exposure, 
and then carefully watches the star through the guidescope. When 
mechanical errors begin to move the star off the center of the 
crosshairs, the mount's drive controls can be used to put it back dead 
center. Keeping the guide star on the crosshairs during the exposure 
will ensure that tracking errors are minimized, and long exposures (up 
to several hours) can be made very accurately. Obviously, this can get 
quite tedious -- you must keep your eye glued to the guidescope for the 
entire exposure, and delaying too long in making corrections will ruin 
an image. Technology has offered a solution to manual guiding tedium -- a
 CCD guide camera. Commercial guide cameras are available, but even 
inexpensive digital Web cams can be easily modified to act as guide 
cameras. Attached to a computer, the camera takes an initial exposure, 
and notes the pixel position of a guide star (specified by the user). 
Then the shutter is opened on the imaging camera, and the guiding 
sequence started through the computer. It takes a new image every few 
seconds, and again notes the pixel position of the guide star. If it's 
moved from its original location, the computer sends signals to the 
equatorial mount to move it back to where it was, just as you would do 
manually. This "auto-guiding" can easily be more accurate than manual 
guiding, and doesn't require the photographer to sit at the guidescope 
for hours on end. The links section at the end of this article has 
resources for making your own auto-guider from an inexpensive Web cam.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
With a good-quality GEM mount, even fairly short 
focal lengths can provide stunning "close-ups" of many celestial 
objects. The image at right is of the Andromeda Galaxy, taken with a 
540mm telescope. While Andromeda (also known as M31) is one of the 
brightest galaxies we can see from earth, it's still very dim by 
photography standards. To make this image, the total exposure time was 
12 hours!</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/import/2008/files/_images/Astrophotography-101-Quarter-Moon-shot-with-a-Can.jpg?itok=7Mhz_BmN" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="438" src="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/import/2008/files/_images/Astrophotography-101-Quarter-Moon-shot-with-a-Can.jpg?itok=7Mhz_BmN" width="640" /></a></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
Once you start using longer focal lengths, a 
whole universe of celestial objects become potential targets. But those 
longer focal lengths, while magnifying those smaller celestial objects, 
also magnify tracking errors -- making it more and more difficult to get
 good images of them. Taking "deep-sky" multiple-hour exposures of tiny,
 dim objects at long focal lengths will require investment in a 
high-quality GEM mount (which is expensive!), sophisticated tracking 
methods and equipment, and lots of practice. The details of this kind of
 work are beyond the scope of this beginning article. If you start with 
star trails or perhaps build a Barn Door mount, you can make wonderful 
night-sky images without investing a lot of money in equipment. But 
beware -- astrophotography can be addictive! Once you start getting 
beautiful night-sky pictures, it's quite likely you'll want to move up 
to higher levels, which means a significant investment of time and 
money. The results are very satisfying and beautiful -- but when your 
spouse starts asking why you need to spend $5,000 on some fancy tripod, 
don't say I didn't warn you!</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
There's one night-sky target we haven't covered 
yet. I saved it until last because it's one of the easiest to take 
pictures of... our Moon. While the moon appears to move across the sky 
at nearly the same rate as the stars, it's very bright -- about the same
 brightness as a daylight scene on Earth (since the light we see from 
the Moon is just reflected sunlight, that makes sense!). Since it's so 
bright, it doesn't require the long exposure times that are needed for 
stars, galaxies, etc. But the Moon can be a great target to photograph.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
The issue with taking pictures of the Moon is 
really focal length of the lens you're going to use. On 35mm film or 
full-frame digital cameras, it takes a focal length of about 2000mm to 
fill the frame with the Moon. APS-C DSLRs need about 1200mm to do the 
same. While you can get satisfactory Moon pictures with shorter focal 
lengths, the closer you can come to those frame-filling ideals, the 
better.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
Proper exposure values for the Moon are easy to 
figure out -- just use the "sunny 16" rule. At f/16, use a shutter speed
 that is the reciprocal of your film or sensor's ISO value; at ISO 200, 
you'd use 1/200th sec. at f/16. Adjust the shutter speed up or down 
according to how many f-stops above or below f/16 your lens is operating
 at. Use a sturdy tripod, use your camera's mirror lock-up function (if 
it has one), and use a remote or cable release. Focus at infinity, and 
shoot away. It's best NOT to use your camera's auto-exposure modes; most
 camera exposure meters see all that black surrounding the Moon, and add
 exposure time to compensate, which over-exposes the Moon itself.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
If your goal is to shoot frame-filling photos of 
the Moon showing lots of detail, the best time to shoot isn't when it's 
full: at full Moon, the Sun is lighting the Moon face-on. Just as with 
your on-camera flash, straight-on lighting is flat, boring, and doesn't 
provide any shadow details. Try taking Moon pictures at first or third 
quarter (when the Moon appears half-lit, as above). At these times, the 
Sun provides side-lighting, showing relief on lunar surfaces and 
providing interesting shadows. Try not to shoot Moon pictures when it's 
low on the horizon. At those positions you're shooting through the 
thickest part of Earth's atmosphere, and the turbulent, moving 
atmosphere makes it difficult to see fine details on the lunar surface. 
Wait until the Moon is high in the sky, where the atmosphere is 
thinnest, even if that means getting up at 2AM to shoot!</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
Another way to shoot pictures of the Moon is to 
include it in landscape shots for dramatic impact. You can use much 
shorter focal lengths than for the frame-filling detail shots, but stay 
on the longer side (100mm or above) or the Moon will look very small in 
the image. The same "sunny 16" exposure guide applies, with a caveat: 
when the Moon is near the horizon, the thick layer of atmosphere you're 
looking through to see it will dim its light, sometimes dramatically. 
When it's near the horizon, start with about two stops more exposure 
than when it's high in the sky, and bracket your exposures if you can. 
For the moonrise image above I used about three stops more than the 
"sunny 16" guideline. A full Moon will rise in the east about the same 
time the Sun is setting in the west; a crescent Moon will rise just 
before sunrise in the east or set just after sunset in the west. 
Balancing the near-daylight exposure for the Moon with twilight can be 
tricky, making sunrise and sunset the best times to shoot. Just be 
careful not to over-expose the Moon or you'll wind up with a white blob 
that shows no detail.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
I hope this How-To has piqued your interest in 
the possibilities of astrophotography. Don't put that camera away when 
it gets dark, get outside and take pictures! A whole universe of 
wonderful images awaits you.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<span style="color: #38761d;">Resources and Links</span></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
To do astrophotography well, you need to get to 
know the night sky -- when and where the Sun and Moon will rise and set,
 which constellations are in the sky at different times of the year, and
 which celestial objects are visible. Here are some internet resources 
to help get you up to speed:</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<b>NASA/JPL's Ephemeris</b><br />
An ephemeris gives the positions of the Sun, Moon, and planets. The 
NASA/JPL site lets you enter your position on earth to get specific 
information for your location, at any time in the present, future, or 
past.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<b>Jim Kaler's Constellation Maps</b><br />
Provides maps of the constellations and their brightest stars, with different maps for the different seasons of the year.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<b>Sky and Telescope's Interactive Star Charts</b><br />
An on-line star chart customizable for your specific location and time.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
The sky is full of interesting objects to 
photograph besides stars -- galaxies, nebulae, clusters, and more. 
French astronomer Charles Messier catalogued 110 of the brightest of 
these objects in the late 1700's, and his Messier List is a good 
starting point to find targets of interest. The Andromeda Galaxy above, 
for example, is also known as Messier 31 (M31). You can get a list of 
all 110 objects, along with information about where to find them in the 
sky, at: SEDS Messier Catalog.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
If you start going for long exposures at long 
focal lengths on an equatorial mount, you're going to need to guide your
 shots -- as mentioned in the text, a simple Web cam can be easily 
modified to be used as an "autoguider." Ash's Astro Pages has several 
articles and tips for using Web cams for guiding and astro-imaging.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
If you're using a DSLR to do your 
astrophotography, Michael Covington offers a comprehensive Web page with
 lots of tips to help you get started: Michael Covington's DSLR 
Astrophotography.</div>
<div data-adafter="false">
Paul LeFevre is a photographer, writer, and 
astronomer living near San Diego, California. He can be reached at 
plefevre@hughes.net.</div>
<div data-adafter="false">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="false">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">source : <a href="http://www.popphoto.com/how-to/2008/12/how-to-astrophotography-101?image=4">http://www.popphoto.com/how-to/2008/12/how-to-astrophotography-101?image=4</a></span></div>
<div data-adafter="false">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="false">
<span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> READ MORE  </span></span></span></div>
<ul>
<li><span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a class="titlex" href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/moon.html">How To  Photograph The Moon</a><b> </b></span></span></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a class="titlex" href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/wedding-day.html">Plan Out a Picture Perfect Wedding Day With These Handy Photography Tips (INFOGRAPHIC</a></span></span></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a class="titlex" href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/dreamy.html">How To Shoot Dreamy Backlit Portraits With Natural Light</a></span></span></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/100-tips.html">100 Tips from a Professional Photographer</a><b><b><b> </b></b></b></span></span></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/september.html">9 creative photo ideas to try in September</a><b><b><b> </b> </b></b></span></span> </li>
</ul>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>

How To Astrophotography

Don't put that camera away when it gets dark, get outside and take pictures! A whole universe of wonderful images awaits you. O...

How To Photograph The Moon

Shovon Lal Saha

Link Author

Title: How To Photograph The Moon
Author: Shovon Lal Saha
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

The most beautiful photography subject 239,000 miles away *I spend a lot of time photographing the night sky, and apart from the Milky W...

<h3>
The most beautiful photography subject 239,000 miles away</h3>
<div data-adafter="true">
*I spend a lot of time photographing the night 
sky, and apart from the Milky Way, one of my favorite celestial objects 
to photograph is The Moon. Our moon is Earth’s only natural satellite, 
and sits at an average distance of 239,000 miles from us. It orbits our 
Earth every 27.3 day, and the same side of The Moon always faces us due 
to its synchronous rotation with Earth. There are eight different phases
 of the moon during it’s 29.53 day monthly cycle, and the most popular 
phase to photograph is during a full moon.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
So how do you go about photographing the moon? 
Well there are a number of things to consider when capturing a good moon
 shot, so I’ll take you through the methods I use and talk a little 
about the gear required as well.*</div>
<h4 data-adafter="true">
It all begins with a plan and location</h4>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/capepallisersupermoon_0.jpg?itok=qOBflPcE" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/capepallisersupermoon_0.jpg?itok=qOBflPcE" width="640" /></a></div>
<h4 data-adafter="true">
</h4>
<div class="field-credit">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
  </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">

</span><br />
<div class="field-body">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">People gather at the base of the Cape Palliser Lighthouse in the 
Wairarapa, New Zealand, to view the biggest Supermoon rising for 2014.</span></div>
<br />
<br />
<div data-adafter="true">
Planning is a big part of all photography, and 
shooting the moon is no exception. I always spend a lot of time planning
 my moon shots, and this first begins with the initial idea of the 
shoot. I may want a wide shot of the moon rising over a land or a city 
scape, or I may want a close up with the moon large in frame. Either way
 always I scout my location before the day of the shoot, and then work 
out what time and where the moon will be in the sky in relation to my 
shot composition.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
Thankfully these days there are some great apps to help you plan your moon shots. Personally I use an app called <a class="linkTargets-processed external" href="http://www.photopills.com/" target="_blank">PhotoPills</a>,
 which can precisely calculate the timing and positioning of your moon 
shots, especially if you want to introduce a foreground object of 
interest into your composition. At this stage PhotoPills is only 
available on the iphone, but fear not, if you have an Android phone, 
then there is another great app that does a similar thing called <a class="linkTargets-processed external" href="http://photoephemeris.com/" target="_blank">The Photographers Ephemeris</a>.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/moonlittekapo.jpg?itok=ofIlwwaH" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="456" src="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/moonlittekapo.jpg?itok=ofIlwwaH" width="640" /></a></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">A moonlit landscape at Lake Tekapo on the South Island of New Zealand. I
 usually don't shoot much wide field astrophotography when the moon is 
out, but on this occasion, the moon was in it's first quarter phase, and
 it was an absolutely perfect evening. So I climbed the largest rock I 
could find on the shores of Lake Tekapo, and took in the views while my 
camera shot a panorama.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
A lot of people that I talk to think that I use a
 telescope to photograph my moon images, but this isn’t the case. I just
 use a regular DSLR camera and a super telephoto lens. These lenses can 
be super expensive - personally I use a 600mm with a 1.4x extender, but 
you don’t have to go out and spend that much money on a lens like this 
to take impressive moon photos.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
A typical kit zoom lens around the 70-300mm mark 
will get you decent moon shots and also give you the versatility of 
shooting images of the moon that are wider. You could photograph the 
moon over a city skyline shot at 70mm, or get more of a close up shot 
with your lens set to 300mm. Sure the optics aren’t going to be as good 
as the more expensive prime telephoto lens, but you are still going to 
going to be able to get the shot.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
Probably one of the most important pieces of 
equipment to use when photographing the moon, is a tripod. Since you are
 shooting with longer focal lengths, you need to keep your camera locked
 down as much as possible to prevent camera shake and get a sharp image,
 so to do that, a sturdy tripod is necessary.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
As far as the camera body is concerned, you are 
probably already sorted there with your current DSLR. I prefer to use a 
cropped (APS-C sized) sensor when photographing the moon, as that will 
give me a little more reach with my focal length. For example, a 300mm 
lens on a crop sensor camera with a 1.6 crop factor, delivers images 
with the same field of view as a full framed sensor camera using a 480mm
 lens. In a way, it's working to your advantage.</div>
<h4 data-adafter="true">
<b>The Importance of composition</b></h4>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/moonsilhouettes.jpg?itok=hpRdOPbF" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/moonsilhouettes.jpg?itok=hpRdOPbF" width="640" /></a></div>
<div data-adafter="true" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="field-body">
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Winning image of the People and Space Category of the Astronomy Photographer of the Year 2013.</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Following on from my 'Full Moon Silhouettes' video, I wanted to see 
if I could capture a similar shot, except this time as a photographic 
still. Amazingly I had perfect weather again, and the location to shoot 
from was almost as perfect as the one from the video. You can find more 
info and see the 'Full Moon Silhouettes' video <a class="linkTargets-processed external" href="http://markg.com.au/2013/01/full-moon-silhouettes/" target="_blank">here</a>.</span></div>
</div>
<div data-adafter="true" style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
As with all forms of photography, a good 
composition is going to set your photos apart from others, so it’s 
important when you are scouting for your locations, that you find 
interesting angles and compositions that are going to differ from your 
every day photos of the moon.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
I always try to introduce an element of interest 
to my moon shots, even if I’m just photographing the moon against the 
night sky - clouds are great for this. Other elements could include 
cityscape's, silhouettes, moon reflections on water, or even the 
International Space Station flying in front of the moon (I’m yet to get 
that shot!)</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
If you keep in mind the traditional composition 
rules, like the rule of thirds or leading lines etc. when working with 
some of these elements, then you are going to end up with a much more 
interesting moon photograph.</div>
<h4 data-adafter="true">
<b>You’ll need so know about settings too</b></h4>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/flymetothemoon.jpg?itok=16-TXpXw" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/flymetothemoon.jpg?itok=16-TXpXw" width="640" /></a></div>
<h4 data-adafter="true">
<b> </b></h4>
<div data-adafter="true">
Probably the most common question I get asked 
about any of my photographs is what settings did I use. There is no real
 hard and fast rule about what settings to use for shooting the moon, 
and these will certainly vary depending on the time of day or night you 
are trying to capture the moon, and also the moon phase. The main thing 
here is most of the time you will want to be exposing for the moon 
itself and not the surrounds. This may not aways be the case, especially
 if you are shooting a wide shot with a city or landscape in frame just 
want the moon to be added interest.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
So for now I am going to just cover the settings I
 use to shoot a full moon around 30 minutes after sunset as it’s rising.
 I also always shoot on manual, and it’s the best way to give you 
ultimate control over your moon images.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
If you’ve ever stopped and actually watched a 
moonrise, you’ll notice that the moon does move fairly fast - it takes 
around 2.5 minutes from when you first see it until it totally clears 
the horizon, so to get a sharp image, shoot with a relatively fast 
shutter. I generally shoot around the 1/125 second mark. As for 
aperture, we are trying to get the detail on the moon as sharp as 
possible, so I very rarely shoot wide open and tend to settle on an 
aperture around f/9.0 As far as ISO is concerned, with the settings I’ve
 just mentioned, I go with a value around 400, but I’ve also pushed it 
to 800 so I could use a faster shutter speed.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
Using live view is a fast and easy way to get 
your exposure of the moon correct. It will give you instant feedback on 
any changes you make to the settings on your camera.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
As I’ve mentioned before, settings will vary 
greatly depending on the brightness of the moon and time of day/night, 
so it’s always good to experiment with your settings when shooting the 
moon.</div>
<h4 data-adafter="true">
<b>Wait there’s more!</b></h4>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/moonsetoverbrooklynwindturbine.jpg?itok=umizJB0o" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/moonsetoverbrooklynwindturbine.jpg?itok=umizJB0o" width="640" /></a></div>
<div data-adafter="true" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">The full moon sets over the Brooklyn wind turbine in Wellington, New 
Zealand. Wellington is one of the windiest cities in the world, and the 
Brooklyn wind turbine is Wellington's first and also the oldest 
operating wind turbine in New Zealand. At 31 meters tall, it is easily 
seen from most parts of the city. Over the course of a year, the turbine
 generates the same amount of electricity as 80 homes use in the same 
period.</span></div>
<div data-adafter="true" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
I’ve been photographing the moon for quite a few 
years now, and I’ve learnt a few things through trial and error, so I 
thought I’d share some more of these tips with you.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<b>Focusing:</b> Thankfully the moon is a bright object in the sky, so even at night, use your auto focus for focusing your camera on the moon.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<b>Allow yourself plenty of time to set up for your shoot:</b>
 It usually takes longer to set up for your moon shot than you think and
 I have been caught by this in the past and missed the shot. I generally
 allow myself 30 minutes set up time.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<b>Use a shutter release and even mirror lock:</b>
 Especially when using longer focal lengths. Just the vibration caused 
by clicking on the shutter button and the mirror flipping up can result 
in having a not so sharp image.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<b>Photograph the moonrise a day before full moon:</b>
 It’s a lot easier to expose for both the moon and landscape etc, as 
there will be enough light around just before sunset to give you a nice 
balanced shot.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<b>Shoot when the moon is high in the sky</b>:
 if you are after a shot of the moon with great sharp detail on it’s 
surface, you are best to wait until the moon is high in the sky. When 
the moon is low at moonrise and moonset, it is being distorted by 
atmospheric refraction, and even though you may be focused perfectly on 
the moon, the detail on the surface will look slightly blurry and out of
 focus.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<span style="color: #0b5394;">**Interesting Moon Photography Fact **</span></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
The moon’s orientation and direction changes 
depending on where you are in the world. To a lot of you, my moon images
 may look upside down. That’s because they were shot in the southern 
hemisphere, and you may be use to seeing the moon from a northern 
hemisphere’s perspective. The moon also rises in a different direction -
 In the southern hemisphere it’s from right to left. Close to the 
equator, it’s pretty much straight up. And the further north you go into
 the northern hemisphere, it rises left to right.</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<b>Final word</b></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
I hope you’ve found this article on photographing
 the moon helpful - it is certainly a rewarding experience when you do 
pull off that epic moon shot, and much more satisfying than just adding a
 big moon to your photos in Photoshop...</div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
If you’d like to read up about how I go about planning my big moon shots in more detail, feel free to <a class="linkTargets-processed external" href="http://theartofnight.com/2013/11/to-the-moon-and-back/" target="_blank">check out my blog on it here</a></div>
<div data-adafter="true">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="false">
In the meantime remember to stop, look up and enjoy, and the best of luck with photographing The Moon!</div>
<div data-adafter="true" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">source : <a href="http://www.popphoto.com/how-to-photography-moon">http://www.popphoto.com/how-to-photography-moon</a></span></div>
<div data-adafter="true" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div data-adafter="true" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: red;"><span style="color: white;"> READ MORE </span></span> </span></div>
<ul>
<li><span style="color: #741b47;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a class="titlex" href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/wedding-day.html">Plan Out a Picture Perfect Wedding Day With These Handy </a></span></span></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><span style="color: purple;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a class="titlex" href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/selfie.html">7 tips to take your best selfie</a></span></span></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a class="titlex" href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/dreamy.html">How To Shoot Dreamy Backlit Portraits With Natural Light</a><b></b></span></span></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a class="titlex" href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/100-tips.html">100 Tips from a Professional Photographer</a> </span></span> </li>
</ul>
<h4 data-adafter="true">
 </h4>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>

How To Photograph The Moon

The most beautiful photography subject 239,000 miles away *I spend a lot of time photographing the night sky, and apart from the Milky W...

Why is photography considered a form of art?

Shovon Lal Saha

Link Author

Title: Why is photography considered a form of art?
Author: Shovon Lal Saha
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

Like other forms of expression, photography is sometimes art, sometimes craft, and sometimes just a grabbed image. The fact that photo...

<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.creativecrabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/art-photography-best-of-the-best.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://www.creativecrabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/art-photography-best-of-the-best.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="feed_item_answer_user" id="__w2_epmVqJl_answer_user_sig"><span id="ld_wjguqn_116828"><span class="IdentitySig ActorNameSig IdentityNameSig" id="__w2_hlkxsGd_bio"><span id="__w2_hlkxsGd_link"><span class="IdentitySig ActorNameSig IdentityNameSig" id="__w2_hlkxsGd_sig"><span class="expanded_q_text" id="__w2_QdwAzx8_text_snip"><span id="__w2_QdwAzx8_text_snip_content"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>Like other forms of expression, photography is sometimes art, sometimes 
craft, and sometimes just a grabbed image.  The fact that photography 
uses technology that has developed more recently than some other forms 
of art often confuse this but the fact remains that expressive 
photography comes from an image that is made, not taken.<br /><br />Let's 
look at some other forms of "art".  There are the Chinese factories that
 produce art in an assembly line wherein each person along the line 
applies a single brushstroke to the canvas.  The end result can be 
pleasing to the eye and evoke an emotional response.  Likely the 
original work was far more expressive in each stroke and more of an 
artform.  But, I'd have to classify the factory copy process as 
craft....  skilled work but a dim copy of the original's emotion.<br /><br />Photography
 can be that way too.  Consider some of the portrait work of  Clarence 
Sinclair Bull style who was famous for Hollywood studio shots.  Check 
out the book, 'The Man Who Shot Garbo', and you will see numerous 
examples of his work and I recommend this to anyone looking to gain some
 knowledge<br />
<br />of classic studio shots.  The other person to look at is 
George Hurrell.  Their lighting, poses and other techniques led to 
highly expressive photographs.  You can feel the subject's attitude 
portrayed in the image.  In landscape, consider the work of Ansel Adams 
whose images are familiar to almost everyone.  The image wasn't simply 
captured, it was manipulated in a way that captured how it feels to be 
there.  And the setting can be part of the expression like white orchids
 in snow.   No way that is happenstance but what a beautiful expression 
of purity.<br /><br />Other times you are doing something with photography 
that captures a fleeting moment.  The man jumping over a puddle in 
France.  That Olympic moment.  Is it art?  Or is it a finely honed craft
 skill?  It's really a bit of both.<br /><br />I appreciate the fine flow of line and brush on media but I also feel the art in photography.<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">source : <a href="https://www.quora.com/Why-is-photography-considered-a-form-of-art">https://www.quora.com/Why-is-photography-considered-a-form-of-art</a></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">READ MORE :</span><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/reflections.html">How to photograph reflections and flip them to skew reality</a></li>
<li><div class="post-title entry-title">
<a href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/who-needs-photoshop.html">How to shoot in-camera multiple exposure portraits</a></div>
</li>
</ul>

Why is photography considered a form of art?

Like other forms of expression, photography is sometimes art, sometimes craft, and sometimes just a grabbed image. The fact that photo...

100 Tips from a Professional Photographer

Shovon Lal Saha

Link Author

Title: 100 Tips from a Professional Photographer
Author: Shovon Lal Saha
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

Here's a list of tips, advice, rules and just things to know about photography from Eric Kim , a street photographer who also holds ...

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/100-tips.html" target="_blank"><img alt="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/100-tips.html" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicaNjZg_gacX983zMzkA_YYyWqVyISkJbqfI1-Tq1tsDYKI_1J_fBkbKeVwqHQ-UFSdAtAbR1L-TTnHz9cLmwMuxrbqVRXEQIRRkLe18-8FoGhhJEbJobkdiX0Lq82zSGsdnhXLlbjx34L/s1600/17kdpussr0h06jpg.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="first-text" data-textannotation-id="3a4b10260fe68561ea8a842d47cd9f21">
Here's a list of tips, advice, rules and just things to know about photography from <a href="http://erickimphotography.com/blog/" target="_blank">Eric Kim</a>, a street photographer who also holds photography workshop classes. I think the gist of it is to keep taking pictures always.</div>
<h3 data-textannotation-id="9c7df7f67fa9da4c8e72ae8cf91b4387">
Here's the full list:</h3>
<div data-textannotation-id="9c7df7f67fa9da4c8e72ae8cf91b4387">
1. Just because someone has an expensive camera doesn't mean that they're a good photographer.<br />
2. Always shoot in RAW. Always.<br />
3. Prime lenses help you learn to be a better photographer.<br />
4. Photo editing is an art in itself<br />
5. The rule of thirds works 99% of the time.<br />
6. Macro photography isn't for everybody.<br />
7. UV filters work just as well as lens caps.<br />
8. Go outside & shoot photos rather than spending hours a day on photography forums.<br />
9. Capture the beauty in the mundane and you have a winning photograph.<br />
10. Film isn't better than digital.<br />
11. Digital isn't better than film.<br />
12. There is no "magic" camera or lens.<br />
13. Better lenses don't give you better photos.<br />
14. Spend less time looking at other people's work and more time shooting your own.<br />
15. Don't take your DSLR to parties.<br />
16. Girls dig photographers.<br />
17. Making your photos b/w doesn't automatically make them "artsy"<br />
18. People will always discredit your work if you tell them you 
"photoshop" your images. Rather, tell them that you process them in the 
"digital darkroom".<br />
19. You don't need to take a photo of everything.<br />
20. Have at least 2 backups of all your images. Like they say in war, two is one, one is none.<br />
21. Ditch the neck strap and get a handstrap.<br />
22. Get closer when taking your photos, they often turn out better.<br />
23. Be a part of a scene while taking a photo; not a voyeur.<br />
24. Taking a photo crouched often make your photos look more interesting.<br />
25. Worry less about technical aspects and focus more on compositional aspects of photography.<br />
26. Tape up any logos on your camera with black gaffers tape- it brings a lot less attention to you.<br />
27. Always underexpose by 2/3rds of a stop when shooting in broad daylight.<br />
28. The more photos you take, the better you get.<br />
29. Don't be afraid to take several photos of the same scene at different exposures, angles, or apertures.<br />
30. Only show your best photos.<br />
31. A point-and-shoot is still a camera.<br />
32. Join an online photography forum.<br />
33. Critique the works of others.<br />
34. Think before you shoot.<br />
35. A good photo shouldn't require explanation (although background information often adds to an image). *<br />
36. Alcohol and photography do not mix well.<br />
37. Draw inspiration from other photographers but never worship them.<br />
38. Grain is beautiful.<br />
39. Ditch the photo backpack and get a messenger bag. It makes getting your lenses and camera a whole lot easier.<br />
40. Simplicity is key.<br />
41. The definition of photography is: "painting with light." Use light in your favor.<br />
42. Find your style of photography and stick with it.<br />
43. Having a second monitor is the best thing ever for photo processing.<br />
44. Silver EFEX pro is the best b/w converter.<br />
45. Carry your camera with you everywhere. Everywhere.<br />
46. Never let photography get in the way of enjoying life.<br />
47. Don't pamper your camera. Use and abuse it.<br />
48. Take straight photos.<br />
49. Shoot with confidence.<br />
50. Photography and juxtaposition are best friends.<br />
51. Print out your photos big. They will make you happy.<br />
52. Give your photos to friends.<br />
53. Give them to strangers.<br />
54. Don't forget to frame them.<br />
55. Costco prints are cheap and look great.<br />
56. Go out and take photos with (a) friend(s).<br />
57. Join a photo club or start one for yourself.<br />
58. Photos make great presents.<br />
59. Taking photos of strangers is thrilling.<br />
60. Candid>Posed.<br />
61. Natural light is the best light.<br />
62. 35mm (on full frame) is the best "walk-around" focal length.<br />
63. Don't be afraid to bump up your ISO when necessary.<br />
64. You don't need to always bring a tripod with you everywhere you go (hell, I don't even own one).<br />
65. It is always better to underexpose than overexpose.<br />
66. Shooting photos of homeless people in an attempt to be "artsy" is exploitation.<br />
67. You will find the best photo opportunities in the least likely situations.<br />
68. Photos are always more interesting with the human element included.<br />
69. You can't "photoshop" bad images into good ones.<br />
70. Nowadays everybody is a photographer.<br />
71. You don't need to fly to Paris to get good photos; the best photo opportunities are in your backyard.<br />
72. People with DSLRS who shoot portraits with their grip pointed downwards look like morons.<br />
73. Cameras as tools, not toys.<br />
74. In terms of composition, photography and painting aren't much different.<br />
75. Photography isn't a hobby- it's a lifestyle.<br />
76. Make photos, not excuses.<br />
77. Be original in your photography. Don't try to copy the style of others.<br />
78. The best photographs tell stories that begs the viewer for more.<br />
79. Any cameras but black ones draw too much attention.<br />
80. The more gear you carry around with you the less you will enjoy photography.<br />
81. Good self-portraits are harder to take than they seem.<br />
82. Laughter always draws out peoples' true character in a photograph.<br />
83. Don't look suspicious when taking photos- blend in with the environment.<br />
84. Landscape photography can become dull after a while.<br />
85. Have fun while taking photos.<br />
86. Never delete any of your photos.<br />
87. Be respectful when taking photos of people or places.<br />
88. When taking candid photos of people in the street, it is easier to use a wide-angle than a telephoto lens.<br />
89. Travel and photography are the perfect pair.<br />
90. Learn how to read a histogram.<br />
91. A noisy photo is better than a blurry one.<br />
92. Don't be afraid to take photos in the rain.<br />
93. Learn how to enjoy the moment, rather than relentlessly trying to capture the perfect picture of it.<br />
94. Never take photos on an empty stomach.<br />
95. You will discover a lot about yourself through your photography.<br />
96. Never hoard your photographic insight- share it with the world.<br />
97. Never stop taking photos<br />
98. Photography is more than simply taking photos, it is a philosophy of life<br />
99. Capture the decisive moment<br />
100. Write your own list.</div>
<div data-textannotation-id="9c7df7f67fa9da4c8e72ae8cf91b4387">
<br /></div>
<div data-textannotation-id="9c7df7f67fa9da4c8e72ae8cf91b4387">
<br /></div>
<div data-textannotation-id="9c7df7f67fa9da4c8e72ae8cf91b4387">
<span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6;">READ MORE :</span></span></div>
<ul>
<li><h3 class="post-title entry-title">
<b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/september.html">9 creative photo ideas to try in September</a></span></b><span style="color: white;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6;"></span></span> </h3>
</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/every-day.html"><span style="font-weight: normal;">How Professional Photographers Take Snapshot Photos</span></a></b><span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span><span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/most-important-questions.html">The 11 most important questions you should ask before taking any Photography Workshop, Seminar or Bootcamp</a></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/cell-phone.html">Photography tips to take good pictures with a cell phone</a></li>
</ul>
<div data-textannotation-id="9c7df7f67fa9da4c8e72ae8cf91b4387">
<br /></div>
<div data-textannotation-id="9c7df7f67fa9da4c8e72ae8cf91b4387">
<span style="color: #741b47;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">source : http://gizmodo.com/5904107/100-tips-from-a-professional-photographer </span></span></div>

100 Tips from a Professional Photographer

Here's a list of tips, advice, rules and just things to know about photography from Eric Kim , a street photographer who also holds ...

Contact Form