How To Photograph The Moon

<h3> The most beautiful photography subject 239,000 miles away</h3> <div data-adafter="true"> *I spend a lot of time photographing the night sky, and apart from the Milky Way, one of my favorite celestial objects to photograph is The Moon. Our moon is Earth’s only natural satellite, and sits at an average distance of 239,000 miles from us. It orbits our Earth every 27.3 day, and the same side of The Moon always faces us due to its synchronous rotation with Earth. There are eight different phases of the moon during it’s 29.53 day monthly cycle, and the most popular phase to photograph is during a full moon.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> So how do you go about photographing the moon? Well there are a number of things to consider when capturing a good moon shot, so I’ll take you through the methods I use and talk a little about the gear required as well.*</div> <h4 data-adafter="true"> It all begins with a plan and location</h4> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/capepallisersupermoon_0.jpg?itok=qOBflPcE" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/capepallisersupermoon_0.jpg?itok=qOBflPcE" width="640" /></a></div> <h4 data-adafter="true"> </h4> <div class="field-credit"> <span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><br /> <span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></div> <span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><br /> <div class="field-body"> <div style="text-align: left;"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">People gather at the base of the Cape Palliser Lighthouse in the Wairarapa, New Zealand, to view the biggest Supermoon rising for 2014.</span></div> <br /> <br /> <div data-adafter="true"> Planning is a big part of all photography, and shooting the moon is no exception. I always spend a lot of time planning my moon shots, and this first begins with the initial idea of the shoot. I may want a wide shot of the moon rising over a land or a city scape, or I may want a close up with the moon large in frame. Either way always I scout my location before the day of the shoot, and then work out what time and where the moon will be in the sky in relation to my shot composition.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> Thankfully these days there are some great apps to help you plan your moon shots. Personally I use an app called <a class="linkTargets-processed external" href="http://www.photopills.com/" target="_blank">PhotoPills</a>, which can precisely calculate the timing and positioning of your moon shots, especially if you want to introduce a foreground object of interest into your composition. At this stage PhotoPills is only available on the iphone, but fear not, if you have an Android phone, then there is another great app that does a similar thing called <a class="linkTargets-processed external" href="http://photoephemeris.com/" target="_blank">The Photographers Ephemeris</a>.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/moonlittekapo.jpg?itok=ofIlwwaH" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="456" src="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/moonlittekapo.jpg?itok=ofIlwwaH" width="640" /></a></div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <br /></div> <div style="text-align: justify;"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">A moonlit landscape at Lake Tekapo on the South Island of New Zealand. I usually don't shoot much wide field astrophotography when the moon is out, but on this occasion, the moon was in it's first quarter phase, and it was an absolutely perfect evening. So I climbed the largest rock I could find on the shores of Lake Tekapo, and took in the views while my camera shot a panorama.</span></div> <div style="text-align: justify;"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> A lot of people that I talk to think that I use a telescope to photograph my moon images, but this isn’t the case. I just use a regular DSLR camera and a super telephoto lens. These lenses can be super expensive - personally I use a 600mm with a 1.4x extender, but you don’t have to go out and spend that much money on a lens like this to take impressive moon photos.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> A typical kit zoom lens around the 70-300mm mark will get you decent moon shots and also give you the versatility of shooting images of the moon that are wider. You could photograph the moon over a city skyline shot at 70mm, or get more of a close up shot with your lens set to 300mm. Sure the optics aren’t going to be as good as the more expensive prime telephoto lens, but you are still going to going to be able to get the shot.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> Probably one of the most important pieces of equipment to use when photographing the moon, is a tripod. Since you are shooting with longer focal lengths, you need to keep your camera locked down as much as possible to prevent camera shake and get a sharp image, so to do that, a sturdy tripod is necessary.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> As far as the camera body is concerned, you are probably already sorted there with your current DSLR. I prefer to use a cropped (APS-C sized) sensor when photographing the moon, as that will give me a little more reach with my focal length. For example, a 300mm lens on a crop sensor camera with a 1.6 crop factor, delivers images with the same field of view as a full framed sensor camera using a 480mm lens. In a way, it's working to your advantage.</div> <h4 data-adafter="true"> <b>The Importance of composition</b></h4> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/moonsilhouettes.jpg?itok=hpRdOPbF" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/moonsilhouettes.jpg?itok=hpRdOPbF" width="640" /></a></div> <div data-adafter="true" style="text-align: justify;"> <br /></div> <div class="field-body"> <div style="text-align: justify;"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Winning image of the People and Space Category of the Astronomy Photographer of the Year 2013.</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Following on from my 'Full Moon Silhouettes' video, I wanted to see if I could capture a similar shot, except this time as a photographic still. Amazingly I had perfect weather again, and the location to shoot from was almost as perfect as the one from the video. You can find more info and see the 'Full Moon Silhouettes' video <a class="linkTargets-processed external" href="http://markg.com.au/2013/01/full-moon-silhouettes/" target="_blank">here</a>.</span></div> </div> <div data-adafter="true" style="text-align: justify;"> </div> <div style="text-align: justify;"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> As with all forms of photography, a good composition is going to set your photos apart from others, so it’s important when you are scouting for your locations, that you find interesting angles and compositions that are going to differ from your every day photos of the moon.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> I always try to introduce an element of interest to my moon shots, even if I’m just photographing the moon against the night sky - clouds are great for this. Other elements could include cityscape's, silhouettes, moon reflections on water, or even the International Space Station flying in front of the moon (I’m yet to get that shot!)</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> If you keep in mind the traditional composition rules, like the rule of thirds or leading lines etc. when working with some of these elements, then you are going to end up with a much more interesting moon photograph.</div> <h4 data-adafter="true"> <b>You’ll need so know about settings too</b></h4> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/flymetothemoon.jpg?itok=16-TXpXw" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/flymetothemoon.jpg?itok=16-TXpXw" width="640" /></a></div> <h4 data-adafter="true"> <b> </b></h4> <div data-adafter="true"> Probably the most common question I get asked about any of my photographs is what settings did I use. There is no real hard and fast rule about what settings to use for shooting the moon, and these will certainly vary depending on the time of day or night you are trying to capture the moon, and also the moon phase. The main thing here is most of the time you will want to be exposing for the moon itself and not the surrounds. This may not aways be the case, especially if you are shooting a wide shot with a city or landscape in frame just want the moon to be added interest.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> So for now I am going to just cover the settings I use to shoot a full moon around 30 minutes after sunset as it’s rising. I also always shoot on manual, and it’s the best way to give you ultimate control over your moon images.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> If you’ve ever stopped and actually watched a moonrise, you’ll notice that the moon does move fairly fast - it takes around 2.5 minutes from when you first see it until it totally clears the horizon, so to get a sharp image, shoot with a relatively fast shutter. I generally shoot around the 1/125 second mark. As for aperture, we are trying to get the detail on the moon as sharp as possible, so I very rarely shoot wide open and tend to settle on an aperture around f/9.0 As far as ISO is concerned, with the settings I’ve just mentioned, I go with a value around 400, but I’ve also pushed it to 800 so I could use a faster shutter speed.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> Using live view is a fast and easy way to get your exposure of the moon correct. It will give you instant feedback on any changes you make to the settings on your camera.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> As I’ve mentioned before, settings will vary greatly depending on the brightness of the moon and time of day/night, so it’s always good to experiment with your settings when shooting the moon.</div> <h4 data-adafter="true"> <b>Wait there’s more!</b></h4> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/moonsetoverbrooklynwindturbine.jpg?itok=umizJB0o" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/moonsetoverbrooklynwindturbine.jpg?itok=umizJB0o" width="640" /></a></div> <div data-adafter="true" style="text-align: justify;"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">The full moon sets over the Brooklyn wind turbine in Wellington, New Zealand. Wellington is one of the windiest cities in the world, and the Brooklyn wind turbine is Wellington's first and also the oldest operating wind turbine in New Zealand. At 31 meters tall, it is easily seen from most parts of the city. Over the course of a year, the turbine generates the same amount of electricity as 80 homes use in the same period.</span></div> <div data-adafter="true" style="text-align: justify;"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> I’ve been photographing the moon for quite a few years now, and I’ve learnt a few things through trial and error, so I thought I’d share some more of these tips with you.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> <b>Focusing:</b> Thankfully the moon is a bright object in the sky, so even at night, use your auto focus for focusing your camera on the moon.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> <b>Allow yourself plenty of time to set up for your shoot:</b> It usually takes longer to set up for your moon shot than you think and I have been caught by this in the past and missed the shot. I generally allow myself 30 minutes set up time.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> <b>Use a shutter release and even mirror lock:</b> Especially when using longer focal lengths. Just the vibration caused by clicking on the shutter button and the mirror flipping up can result in having a not so sharp image.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> <b>Photograph the moonrise a day before full moon:</b> It’s a lot easier to expose for both the moon and landscape etc, as there will be enough light around just before sunset to give you a nice balanced shot.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> <b>Shoot when the moon is high in the sky</b>: if you are after a shot of the moon with great sharp detail on it’s surface, you are best to wait until the moon is high in the sky. When the moon is low at moonrise and moonset, it is being distorted by atmospheric refraction, and even though you may be focused perfectly on the moon, the detail on the surface will look slightly blurry and out of focus.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> <span style="color: #0b5394;">**Interesting Moon Photography Fact **</span></div> <div data-adafter="true"> The moon’s orientation and direction changes depending on where you are in the world. To a lot of you, my moon images may look upside down. That’s because they were shot in the southern hemisphere, and you may be use to seeing the moon from a northern hemisphere’s perspective. The moon also rises in a different direction - In the southern hemisphere it’s from right to left. Close to the equator, it’s pretty much straight up. And the further north you go into the northern hemisphere, it rises left to right.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> <b>Final word</b></div> <div data-adafter="true"> I hope you’ve found this article on photographing the moon helpful - it is certainly a rewarding experience when you do pull off that epic moon shot, and much more satisfying than just adding a big moon to your photos in Photoshop...</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> If you’d like to read up about how I go about planning my big moon shots in more detail, feel free to <a class="linkTargets-processed external" href="http://theartofnight.com/2013/11/to-the-moon-and-back/" target="_blank">check out my blog on it here</a></div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="false"> In the meantime remember to stop, look up and enjoy, and the best of luck with photographing The Moon!</div> <div data-adafter="true" style="text-align: justify;"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true" style="text-align: justify;"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">source : <a href="http://www.popphoto.com/how-to-photography-moon">http://www.popphoto.com/how-to-photography-moon</a></span></div> <div data-adafter="true" style="text-align: justify;"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true" style="text-align: justify;"> <span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: red;"><span style="color: white;"> READ MORE </span></span> </span></div> <ul> <li><span style="color: #741b47;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a class="titlex" href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/wedding-day.html">Plan Out a Picture Perfect Wedding Day With These Handy </a></span></span></li> </ul> <ul> <li><span style="color: purple;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a class="titlex" href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/selfie.html">7 tips to take your best selfie</a></span></span></li> </ul> <ul> <li><span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a class="titlex" href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/dreamy.html">How To Shoot Dreamy Backlit Portraits With Natural Light</a><b></b></span></span></li> </ul> <ul> <li><span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a class="titlex" href="http://photoobest.blogspot.com/2015/09/100-tips.html">100 Tips from a Professional Photographer</a> </span></span> </li> </ul> <h4 data-adafter="true"> </h4> <div style="text-align: justify;"> <br /></div>

How To Photograph The Moon

The most beautiful photography subject 239,000 miles away *I spend a lot of time photographing the night sky, and apart from the Milky W...

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How Professional Photographers Take Snapshot Photos

<div class="field-body inContentAds-processed"> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5548/11874722676_6450fcb8ba_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="441" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5548/11874722676_6450fcb8ba_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> “More snapshots are being made every day than ever before,” says <a class="linkTargets-processed external" href="http://www.prestonutley.com/" target="_blank">Preston Utley</a>, a Denver-based wedding photographer who also produces <a class="linkTargets-processed external" href="http://thesnapshotdiaries.tumblr.com/" target="_blank">The Snapshot Diaries</a>, a website dedicated to his everyday pics. “Photography has become the universal language, and photo sharing sites like Snapchat, Instagram, and Facebook have made snapshots the most popular way to share experiences.”</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> The better these everyday photos, the better we can share the passions, emotions, and simple details of our lives. And the pros we interviewed all agree that taking more engaging day-to-day snapshots improves their professional images, too.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> For many of us, our best snapshots can feel like photographic gifts of fate. But not for these pros. More often than not, they bring the same focus and planning to snapshooting that they bring to their day jobs.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> “Snapshots aren’t necessarily reality,” says <a class="linkTargets-processed external" href="http://www.lucyschaeffer.com/" target="_blank">Lucy Schaeffer,</a> a food and lifestyle specialist based in Brooklyn, “but instead they are what a photographer chooses to present as reality.” Her best are often constructed but appear “spontaneous, real, untidy, emotional, surprising, and compelling,” she says.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> “I will often ask my kids to do something again if I missed it the first time, or ask them to do something again, ‘but bigger,’” says Schaeffer. Often, in the middle of a family activity, if she thinks the scene is too somber, she will let loose with a joke. “That way I get the action I want, but with real smiles. I don’t hesitate to move people closer to a better background or to the other side of the room for better light or camera angle.”</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> Based in Venice Beach, California, lifestyle pro <a class="linkTargets-processed external" href="http://www.pascalshirley.com/" target="_blank">Pascal Shirley</a> does the same. “Most of my pictures are orchestrated snapshots,” he says. “First I decide on the location and the lighting. Then I might move some things around or take away elements that I don’t like. I don’t get caught up shooting in one location; I keep moving around for different backgrounds.”</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> Direct your subjects, but don’t force anything, advises Shirley. You have to pick up on emotions as they happen, but if your subjects start to zone out, it’s time to move on. “Over-directing is a classic mistake. Having a tolerance for uncertainty will lead to better snapshots. These moments are sometimes not staged but are what I call ‘in between’ moments. Stay fluid, listen to your subjects, and look for these moments.”</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> <a href="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/images/2015/09/pph0915_ss_022.jpg?itok=s3G4MlkC" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="196" src="http://www.popphoto.com/sites/popphoto.com/files/styles/medium_1x_/public/images/2015/09/pph0915_ss_022.jpg?itok=s3G4MlkC" width="200" /></a>Utley agrees that consistently good snapshots don’t come about by luck. “Road trips, family gatherings, walking the dog, or moments around the house when the lighting is nice” are times when great snapshots happen, he says. Plan such moments in advance and have plenty of memory cards and charged batteries on hand.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> For Schaeffer, great snapshots often come as the result of creative camera angles. “I rarely shoot snapshots of kids from [my] eye-level. Getting [the camera] really low adds drama and brings you into the kids’ world. Standing above and shooting straight down is also fun and graphic,” she says.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> Capturing kids and adults while they are interacting with the people they love is almost always rewarding, says Schaeffer. “Sometimes I just stand back and let it happen, while other times I’ll nudge the moment along.”</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> Her main goal? To tell a story. “I shoot pulled back, then zoom in to middle distances, and finally zoom in even closer for more detail. Together, the whole package should have a nice flow,” she says.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> Whatever you do, keep firing. “If you shoot for a while, your subjects forget that you’re there and they forget to be self-conscious,” says Schaeffer. Another reason? Shoot a lot and you will have far more pictures to work with later. And editing, she says, is the secret; “Half of great photography is great editing.” Utley recommends that if you’re working with a phone or camera with a slow lens you probably won’t be able to isolate a subject by defocusing the background. If everything will be sharp, work with that. “Create layers within your compositions, where near-, middle-distance, and background subjects form some kind of relationship, interest, design, or balance.”</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> And watch out for group shots with everyone looking at you. For Shirley, a good posing technique is waiting for your subjects to look in different directions. “If you find people all staring at your camera or at one particular object in a scene, it can look fake. Humans are not statues, so get them to move and look around. Movement adds energy and makes for stronger images. Going for walks always leads to great snapshots,” he says.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> With kids, get ridiculous, adds Schaeffer. If you want little kids looking at you and laughing, she says, “tell them things that are just plain wrong, preferably disgusting. ‘I heard your favorite food is smelly socks’ usually gets a smile or laugh,” she says. “And then take it to the next level: ‘What do you like to drink with your socks? Coffee?’”</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> Watch your framing and be familiar with your camera controls. “When snapshots fail, it’s most often due to composition and lighting errors,” says Shirley. “Cluttered backgrounds, camera shake, and exposure errors—either too dark or too light—are the most common problems,” he says. Master those camera controls.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> How should you set exposures? For spontaneous kid shots Schaeffer almost always shoots in aperture-priority mode. “That way I can control depth of field, which is the thing I care most about. I keep an eye on shutter speed, trying to keep it to at least 1/60 sec or, ideally, 1/125 sec. If it drops below that, I bump up the ISO. I shoot wide open in low light and constantly adjust the autofocus points as I shoot, because I don’t always trust my eyes to confirm focus as quickly and accurately as my camera’s AF system can.”</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> But you don’t need a fancy camera. “Almost any that you actually take with you will have the potential of capturing great snapshots,” says Schaeffer. But a camera that’s too cumbersome or unresponsive is not the right tool for snapshots. “My iPhone is always in my pocket, and I shoot snapshots with it daily,” she says. Shirley thinks that zoom lenses are crucial for taking better snapshots, because you can compose more quickly and by zooming out for the bigger picture, you create more options for editing and cropping later. “I would stay away from slow cameras with frame rates lower than, say, 5 frames per second and/or quickly filled burst buffers,” he says.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> Larger cameras, lenses, and lighting setups don’t work for snapshooting for the obvious reasons. Besides, says Shirley, smaller cameras are less threatening. “I like the Fujifilm X 100-series cameras, the Ricoh GR, and the Sony point-and-shoots.”</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> Keep to natural, ambient light, he adds. “You really don’t need artificial lighting these days; digital sensors are so good in low light now. Don’t be afraid to push the ISO. I’ve printed great snapshots with ISOs as high as 3200.”</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> Schaeffer likes available light in all its forms. “Windows, iPad screens, the end of tunnels, anything, really. I often turn off artificial lights in order to use nice window light,” she says. “Food looks best in daylight, and kids do too. I bump up the ISO and/or shoot wide open to milk any available light that I can find.” Utley agrees. “Natural window light and whenever the sun is low in the sky make for better snapshots. If you’re forced to shoot during harsh midday light, try to move your subjects to wherever there’s shade,” he recommends.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="true"> As for backgrounds, simple is better than cluttered. “If something in the scene isn’t contributing to your picture, remove it,” says Shirley. “Remember, everything in a picture can be considered a prop and, as the photographer, you decide what stays and what goes. Usually, you can’t go wrong with natural backgrounds.” Bring your snapshot sessions outdoors whenever possible.</div> <div data-adafter="true"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="false"> All three of our photographers agreed that great snapshots come their way because they always have a camera on hand. “The more often you carry your camera and use it, the more pictures you will take, and the better photographer you will become,” says Pascal Shirley. And not just when you’re taking snapshots.</div> <div data-adafter="false"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="false"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="false"> <br /></div> <div data-adafter="false"> source : <a href="http://www.popphoto.com/start-making-better-snapshots">http://www.popphoto.com/start-making-better-snapshots</a> </div> </div>

How Professional Photographers Take Snapshot Photos

“More snapshots are being made every day than ever before,” says Preston Utley , a Denver-based wedding photographer who also pr...

Read more »