WHAT ARE THE RIGHT SETTINGS AND TECHNIQUES FOR PHOTOGRAPHING BIRDS AND WILDLIFE?
A critical factor related to photographic equipment is the ability to get closer to the subject. Unless one has a stealthy nature, any small movement would scare away most birds and wildlife, especially small ones. One needs to use a camera with good zooming capabilities for effective photographic birding.
Sometimes a 3X or up to 5X zoom just won't be enough except for photographing the ever present Mallard ducks and Canada Geese where even close up shots are highly possible.
A fast shutter speed is the baseline for the camera. The preference for shutter speed is at 1/800th of a second to freeze most actions. If the subject is in the shade with expected small movements like feeding or preening, a slower shutter speed such as 1/200th second can be used. This allows the aperture to open up further for more light. If blur occurs, increase the shutter speed.
The primary focusing on birds or wildlife should be the eyes. When you view images, you are naturally drawn to the eyes (unless it’s a bear with its mouth open!).
The best condition to photograph birds in flight is when there is lots of light. You can use the lowest possible ISO available from your camera for the least amount of noise. You can also use the Sunny white balance setting for optimum in camera color rendition.
Find out more - get the complete resource for digital photographers http://www.learndigitalphotographynow.com/a.php?a=dptnet
Sometimes a 3X or up to 5X zoom just won't be enough except for photographing the ever present Mallard ducks and Canada Geese where even close up shots are highly possible.
A fast shutter speed is the baseline for the camera. The preference for shutter speed is at 1/800th of a second to freeze most actions. If the subject is in the shade with expected small movements like feeding or preening, a slower shutter speed such as 1/200th second can be used. This allows the aperture to open up further for more light. If blur occurs, increase the shutter speed.
The primary focusing on birds or wildlife should be the eyes. When you view images, you are naturally drawn to the eyes (unless it’s a bear with its mouth open!).
The best condition to photograph birds in flight is when there is lots of light. You can use the lowest possible ISO available from your camera for the least amount of noise. You can also use the Sunny white balance setting for optimum in camera color rendition.
Find out more - get the complete resource for digital photographers http://www.learndigitalphotographynow.com/a.php?a=dptnet
HOW CAN I TAKE PICTURES INTO THE SUN AND AVOID LENS FLARE?
Lens flare is created when non-image forming light enters the lens and then hits the camera's film or digital sensor. It can lower the overall contrast of a photograph significantly and is often undesired artifact; however, some types of flare may actually enhance the artistic meaning of a photo.
A good lens hood can nearly eliminate flare caused by stray light from outside the angle of view. Ensure that this hood has a completely non-reflective inner surface, such as felt, and that there are no regions which have rubbed off.
If a lens hood can’t be purchased for your camera model or if it is inadequate, there are some easy but less convenient workarounds. Placing a hand or piece of paper exterior to the side of the lens which is nearest the flare-inducing light source can mimic the effect of a proper lens hood. Care has to be taken that the makeshift “hood” does not become a part of the picture.
Find out more - get the complete resource for digital photographers http://www.learndigitalphotographynow.com/a.php?a=dptnet
If a lens hood can’t be purchased for your camera model or if it is inadequate, there are some easy but less convenient workarounds. Placing a hand or piece of paper exterior to the side of the lens which is nearest the flare-inducing light source can mimic the effect of a proper lens hood. Care has to be taken that the makeshift “hood” does not become a part of the picture.
Find out more - get the complete resource for digital photographers http://www.learndigitalphotographynow.com/a.php?a=dptnet
HOW CAN I TAKE GOOD PICTURES IN THE SNOW OR ON THE BEACH?
When shooting pictures in the snow or on the beach, you face special challenges that your camera cannot handle properly without your help. Snow and sand are two of the most reflective surfaces that you will ever attempt to photograph. That reflectivity will fool your camera's built-in light meter, which adjusts the exposure of your shots automatically at the time you take a picture. Your digital camera interprets all that light reflected off of the snow as a scene that is brighter than it actually is.
There are a couple of ways to work with this. If your camera has special 'shooting modes' for snow or beach shooting, try those. These modes will bump up the exposure of your pictures automatically. Remember not to leave your camera set on those shooting modes, however, as normal scenes will then come out too dark.
If your camera doesn't have a special shooting mode for snow or the beach, but it does have the ability to manually change settings, you can probably adjust the exposure yourself using an exposure compensation dial or button. Set the control to about +1 or +2, so that you're overexposing the scene by one or two stops, allowing more light to enter your camera's lens.
Find out more - get the complete resource for digital photographers http://www.learndigitalphotographynow.com/a.php?a=dptnet
There are a couple of ways to work with this. If your camera has special 'shooting modes' for snow or beach shooting, try those. These modes will bump up the exposure of your pictures automatically. Remember not to leave your camera set on those shooting modes, however, as normal scenes will then come out too dark.
If your camera doesn't have a special shooting mode for snow or the beach, but it does have the ability to manually change settings, you can probably adjust the exposure yourself using an exposure compensation dial or button. Set the control to about +1 or +2, so that you're overexposing the scene by one or two stops, allowing more light to enter your camera's lens.
Find out more - get the complete resource for digital photographers http://www.learndigitalphotographynow.com/a.php?a=dptnet
HOW CAN I TAKE CLEAR, CRISP WELL-FOCUSED PHOTOS EVERY TIME?
Well, if you can anticipate every lighting possibility, every movement a subject is going to take, and every climate, temperature, and situation that might present itself, you can take a good picture every time.
The thing is, it’s not important that every picture be perfect. What’s important is taking enough pictures so that you CAN have those perfect ones. The key word to remember is persistence. If you persist in photography, learn from your mistakes, and practice, it won’t matter that some of your pictures aren’t clear, crisp, and well-focused every time. Your photograph album of your “best” pictures will grow over time.
Find out more - get the complete resource for digital photographers http://www.learndigitalphotographynow.com/a.php?a=dptnet
The thing is, it’s not important that every picture be perfect. What’s important is taking enough pictures so that you CAN have those perfect ones. The key word to remember is persistence. If you persist in photography, learn from your mistakes, and practice, it won’t matter that some of your pictures aren’t clear, crisp, and well-focused every time. Your photograph album of your “best” pictures will grow over time.
Find out more - get the complete resource for digital photographers http://www.learndigitalphotographynow.com/a.php?a=dptnet
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